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#11
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Is Akai CR-83D Really Worth $150-$200+?
On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 19:39:11 GMT, "William W Western"
wrote: with the manual choke. Youngsters these days don't seem to get the concept. Neither do they understand what a carburetor is and does. Hard to imagine you would need a rich mixture to get the thing lit in your climate. I do not miss carburetors all. snip Ah, but you do. You see, the stratified charge engine, successfully mass produced by Honda after Ford said it was impossible, uses a "pre combustion" chamber near the plug, fed by an auxiliary, small "rich" venturi, complete with separate manifold runners, running at around a 13:1 mixture, which is easily ignited under all circumstances. The main venturi, actually the primary (it's a 3 bbl., actually) feeds the main combustion chamber through a more conventional intake valve from conventional manifold runners, and has a mixture of around 16:1 or higher. Such a lean mixture cannot be successfully be "lit" by a spark plug, but is well ignited by the wall of flame coming from the auxiliary chamber. Thus, Honda was able to forestall installation of catalysts on their CVCC (Controlled Vortex Combustion Chamber) until 1979 in California, and the early '80s in the rest of the US. Canada had the conventional engine sans CVCC on these cars. With such a light mixture, a choke must be used to keep it running smoothly during warmup. Prior to 1978, Honda hadn't yet devised an automated system using an electric choke element that would satisfy all conditions, so a manual, calibrated choke was used..."one click" for mild weather when starting cold, two for colder weather, and full closed for very cold or long periods of sitting. It's a fascinating engine, really, misunderstood by most, but once one gets the gist of the design and knows the tricks and foibles, it's as good as any other. One thing that gave the CVCC a bad rep with careless owners were the auxiliary valve body seals for each cylinder. The o-ring material wasn't up to the heat generated around the valve body, and they'd shrink, causing excessive oil consumption. Fel-Pro, some years ago, developed tougher Viton® o-ring seals that obviated regular replacement. Ditto the stock camshaft timing belt; the OEM belts were notoriously weak and would peel apart at 30K miles or so, and 24K mile belt changes were recommended. Aftermarket belts last 50K or longer. The kid just got the Accord with a new timing belt and tensioner, plus a whole set of Fel-Pro valve body seals, so I expect he'll get quite good service for some time to come, as long as he keeps the car maintained well. My '75 Civic CVCC got over 180K miles on the original engine with little problem, and I'd expect this one to get even more. Weak spot: cracking exhaust manifolds, an expensive problem to fix through swapping out for new, but the manifolds can be drilled and pinned in the usual fashion, thus saving around $700. It's still getting 29-30 MPG around town...try THAT on a new Honda! It doesn't happen. Oh yes...the AC still works quite well as well, as I'd just installed a new expansion valve about three years ago. Frigid air, every time. |
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#12
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Is Akai CR-83D Really Worth $150-$200+?
With such a light mixture, a choke must be used to keep it running
smoothly during warmup. Prior to 1978, Honda hadn't yet devised an automated system using an electric choke element that would satisfy all conditions, so a manual, calibrated choke was used..."one click" for mild weather when starting cold, two for colder weather, and full closed for very cold or long periods of sitting. Good explanation, I had forgotten of the unique nature of the engine. maintained well. My '75 Civic CVCC Or "rotting honda" as some would dub them. |
#13
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Is Akai CR-83D Really Worth $150-$200+?
On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 20:06:28 GMT, "William W Western"
wrote: With such a light mixture, a choke must be used to keep it running smoothly during warmup. Prior to 1978, Honda hadn't yet devised an automated system using an electric choke element that would satisfy all conditions, so a manual, calibrated choke was used..."one click" for mild weather when starting cold, two for colder weather, and full closed for very cold or long periods of sitting. Good explanation, I had forgotten of the unique nature of the engine. maintained well. My '75 Civic CVCC Or "rotting honda" as some would dub them. snip Well, Deludo Nudo, aka Charlie Nudo, has a challenged sense of reality anyway, so no one can take anything he says with any assurance of veracity, as everything he even thinks in his mercury shorted brain defies credulity. Funny thing about Noodles' descriptor is that, even now, there's not a speck of body rust on that car at all, mostly owing to California's 75 year ban on road salt, arid climate and abundance of volcanic cinders, which actually work better on ice anyway. In the toxic cesspool of NE Pennsylvania, these cars didn't last very long, owing to the toxic sludge smeared on the highways and byways every winter. Hell, neither did the big iron monsters from the '40s and '50s, as pictures of Noodles' junked '49 Olds showed in stunning detail. Another car famous for getting rust lobsters early was the Chrysler F-body, and just about every Chrysler product from the 1950s. There's a '76 Aspen 4 door running around town here that's in fairly pristine condition, driven by the original owner...again, not a speck of rust to be seen anywhere. Funny thing about that Aspen...the doors bolt up to my Fifth Avenue exactly. After all, the long produced M-body, the "cop car" of choice in the US for about 12 years, was in reality an "F-body stretch" without the rust problems, along with a better suspension. Noodles should be apprehensive about his Saturn WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGON, as well. Although the plastic body panels don't rust, the cage underneath surely does...and his Saturn WAAAAAAAAAAAAAGON probably has more rust on it than my former 32 year old Honda has now. But, then again, when you're as mentally challenged as he is, he probably can't see it anyway. I have a request from the kid down the street to record some 8 tracks of all his favorite "alternative rock" stuff, so he can play the tapes and blow more minds, so I have to do that tonight. Should be interesting to hear about some of the reactions! |
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Is Akai CR-83D Really Worth $150-$200+?
Noodles should be apprehensive about his Saturn WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGON, as
well. Although the plastic body panels don't rust, the cage underneath surely does I have had more than one pimply faced youth show off his newly purchased '84 Fiero 2M4 he "stole" for $1600 who happily prattled on about plastic body panels and no problems with rust. Since most of these have gone through several owners while eventually trickling down to the lad's (ie, his old man's) price tag and been driven year round through slop and salt and treated roughly for the last 24 years, I am hard pressed to show much enthusiasm. I show him the underpinnings and point out the danger of his cancer ridden almost nonexistent engine cradle. He claims that is okay as he was contemplating dropping an LT1 with a brand new custom made cradle in it. For the next few years I see the car with cables and wires hanging out the bottom perched up on rickety blocks at some local grease monkey's establishment. Then it is gone, never to be seen again. Fact - plenty of steel to rust out down below.....fact - engine swapping requires more than part time gas jockey wages to pull off. I have a request from the kid down the street to record some 8 tracks of all his favorite "alternative rock" stuff, so he can play the tapes and blow more minds, so I have to do that tonight. Should be interesting to hear about some of the reactions! That kid's having a ball, eh! |
#15
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Is Akai CR-83D Really Worth $150-$200+?
On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 20:13:05 GMT, "William W Western"
wrote: That kid's having a ball, eh! snip Aye! He just got his 90 minutes of "new music" on some Ampex 385 "20/20" tape. He jetted by for a second to pick it up, and it sounded pretty incredible indeed for 8 track, owing mainly to the neat 100 W system I'd installed in that car. I ran it off on the Wollensak 8075A...sans Dolby, of course...which still probably has less than two or three hours since a full electrical and mechanical alignment. After my day of engine work on the little beast, it runs like a Swiss watch and isn't showing any signs of using oil at all now. I really do have to figure out what to do with all this 8 track crap stored about. It's simply too fun to throw away, and I've several hours invested in restoring that 8075 (and a nice little Lafayette) to as-new condition. All the rest have been junked or Sally Anned. I've tons of blank carts, some of which are rare high bias/low noise of various brands. Perhaps I should start taking orders? Literally boxes of Memorex abound, a really good "best buy" cartridge as any I'd tested back when I was doing my "8 track research project." I threw out all the BASF, Certron and Tracs junk as being worthless. Not only that, the cheap polystyrene cart cases aren't recyclable! |
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