If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
ami g 200
i checked the scan switch. got it adjusted and turned the meter wheel
and it stopped the turn table so it looks to be okay. when i checked the power on my push button accumalator theres no power. the coin mechanism was missing when i bought this. there is a cable with five wires cut on the lower left hand side i belive went to the coin mechs. does it have to have the coin mechs hooked up to get power to the accumualator from the junction box. if so can i tie one of these wires together to get the same results.the guy i bought it from said it was on freeplay but i dont see how it was done. also what models use the same coin mechs and plug. i would like to find one with the plug and about 3ft of wiring. thanks in advance. |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
ami g 200
On Nov 29, 1:40*pm, em pinball wrote:
i checked the scan switch. got it adjusted and turned the meter wheel and it stopped the turn table so it looks to be okay. when i checked the power on my push button accumalator theres no power. the coin mechanism was missing when i bought this. there is a cable with five wires cut on the lower left hand side i belive went to the coin mechs. does it have to have the coin mechs hooked up to get power to the accumualator from the junction box. if so can i tie one of these wires together to get the same results.the guy i bought it from said it was on freeplay but i dont see how it was done. also what models use the same coin mechs and plug. i would like to find one with the plug and about 3ft of wiring. thanks in advance. The "G" is further back than I have delt with in AMI's I do have an "F" original manual and it shows a credit unit typical of what AMI used back then. Look for a (likely) gray box approx 4in sq. take the cover off and you should see a gear with some solenoids and pawls. Try moving that gear counter-clockwise to add credits. The direction may be different depending on how it was built, and you may have to push-in a pawl on one of the solenoids to make the credit wheel turn. When these machines were sold into home use the a-hole operators often disabled the coin units to prevent them form being put back into revenue service. With AMI it is simple to "free play" by simply moving up the credit wheel and either cutting the wire to the subtract coil or simply moving the wiper or leaf contacts up to a point where they are always credited. One problem with either of the methods is that since the credit contacts no longer move, they can lose contact due to tarnish or pitting. As for wires cut to the missing coin mech DO NOT permanently connect any of them together. They are for momentary contact only and would burn out either a coil or a fuse protecting it. IF the wire colors to the coin mech are the same, it goes: red=common..white-yellow-black are the various coin switches. You should be able to momentarily touch one of them to the red and hear some "clunking" sound in the credit unit. Rob |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
ami g 200
On Nov 30, 4:40*am, em pinball wrote:
i checked the scan switch. got it adjusted and turned the meter wheel and it stopped the turn table so it looks to be okay. when i checked the power on my push button accumalator theres no power. As an extra comment on this, there is no latch bar solenoid or anything on this system. When credit is established (see my other post), this simply enables power to flow to the motor via leaf switches on the button banks (note - one letter and one number must be closed to start motor) , which then does the rest of the job of transmitting the "serial data" down to the pulse receiver at the lower front of the mechanism. If you gently rotate the motor wiper forward (clockwise) even with no credits and no buttons pressed, it should start running by itself, stop after one full turn, and you should hear a series of fast "clunks" from the mechanism, similar to the noise you hear on the line when dialling an old rotary dial phone. if you don't have this, its time to start checking for 28v ac. the coin mechanism was missing when i bought this. there is a cable with five wires cut on the lower left hand side i belive went to the coin mechs. does it have to have the coin mechs hooked up to get power to the accumualator from the junction box. if so can i tie one of these wires together to get the same results.the guy i bought it from said it was on freeplay but i dont see how it was done. also what models use the same coin mechs and plug. i would like to find one with the plug and about 3ft of wiring. thanks in advance. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
ami g 200
On Nov 30, 6:39*am, Rob in NYC wrote:
On Nov 29, 1:40*pm, em pinball wrote: i checked the scan switch. got it adjusted and turned the meter wheel and it stopped the turn table so it looks to be okay. when i checked the power on my push button accumalator theres no power. the coin mechanism was missing when i bought this. there is a cable with five wires cut on the lower left hand side i belive went to the coin mechs. does it have to have the coin mechs hooked up to get power to the accumualator from the junction box. if so can i tie one of these wires together to get the same results.the guy i bought it from said it was on freeplay but i dont see how it was done. also what models use the same coin mechs and plug. i would like to find one with the plug and about 3ft of wiring. thanks in advance. The "G" is further back than I have delt with in AMI's *I do have an "F" original manual and it shows a credit unit typical of what AMI used back then. Look for a (likely) gray box approx 4in sq. take the cover off and you should see a gear with some solenoids and pawls. * Try moving that gear counter-clockwise to add credits. The direction may be different depending on how it was built, and you may have to push-in a pawl on one of the solenoids to make the credit wheel turn. When these machines were sold into home use the a-hole operators often disabled the coin units to prevent them form being put back into revenue service. *With AMI it is simple to "free play" by simply moving up the credit wheel and either cutting the wire to the subtract coil or simply moving the wiper or leaf contacts up to a point where they are always credited. One problem with either of the methods is that since the credit contacts no longer move, they can lose contact due to tarnish or pitting. As for wires cut to the missing coin mech DO NOT permanently connect any of them together. They are for momentary contact only and would burn out either a coil or a fuse protecting it. IF the wire colors to the coin mech are the same, it goes: red=common..white-yellow-black are the various coin switches. *You should be able to momentarily touch one of them to the red and hear some "clunking" sound in the credit unit. Rob Hi, out of interest your points are totally correct for the other systems, but for future reference the G-200 uses a totally different and very unique design of credit system to both the G-80 series and the H onward. refer to my other post. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
ami g-200 | em pinball | Juke Boxes | 5 | November 28th 10 01:42 PM |
help with am ami G-200 | em pinball | Juke Boxes | 1 | November 15th 10 05:01 AM |
FS: AMI J-120 & AMI K-200 at Allentown Pa | Vintage Pinballs | Juke Boxes | 1 | May 6th 07 11:35 PM |
AMI I 200 | David O'Grady | Juke Boxes | 1 | March 13th 04 12:36 PM |
FS : AMI I 200 | classic tech | Juke Boxes | 0 | September 13th 03 02:37 PM |