Wurlitzer 1015 refinishing Question.

I'm curoius what stains, dies, etc. people have found best to use
while refinishing a 1015 for both the lighter maple front and the
darker walnut knees and box. Also my box was missing most of the
outside veneer. It looks like from marks on my box and pictures of
others that the large area of walnut on the sides stopped at the knee
level with a visual seam then continued to the bottom. Can anyone help
me with an explaination so that I can reproduce with new veneer?
Thanks,
Rob

Any help please - could really use it?
Thanks


(rob) wrote in message . com...
I'm curoius what stains, dies, etc. people have found best to use
while refinishing a 1015 for both the lighter maple front and the
darker walnut knees and box. Also my box was missing most of the
outside veneer. It looks like from marks on my box and pictures of
others that the large area of walnut on the sides stopped at the knee
level with a visual seam then continued to the bottom. Can anyone help
me with an explaination so that I can reproduce with new veneer?
Thanks,
Rob

I used regular walnut veneer on mine. The seam at the top center and the
lower sides is correct. I'm not sure why they elected to place a seam on the
side unless sheets were coming precut in a given length. I used a walnut
stain and then followed with several coats of lacquer. You may want to use a
grain filler depending on how slick a finish you are looking for. I'm
getting to where I use it on any open grain veneer I install.

My front and legs were all in good shape. I got away with sanding, staining,
and lacquering those.

Hope this helps
Mike in Dallas

"rob" wrote in message
m...
Any help please - could really use it?
Thanks


(rob) wrote in message
. com...
I'm curoius what stains, dies, etc. people have found best to use
while refinishing a 1015 for both the lighter maple front and the
darker walnut knees and box. Also my box was missing most of the
outside veneer. It looks like from marks on my box and pictures of
others that the large area of walnut on the sides stopped at the knee
level with a visual seam then continued to the bottom. Can anyone help
me with an explaination so that I can reproduce with new veneer?
Thanks,
Rob

I had the same question when restoring our 1015. A friend of ours that used
to restore them said he always used Minwax Early American for the walnut
areas. He said it was the best match to the original and ours turned out
great!
DC
"rob" wrote in message
m...
Any help please - could really use it?
Thanks


(rob) wrote in message
. com...
I'm curoius what stains, dies, etc. people have found best to use
while refinishing a 1015 for both the lighter maple front and the
darker walnut knees and box. Also my box was missing most of the
outside veneer. It looks like from marks on my box and pictures of
others that the large area of walnut on the sides stopped at the knee
level with a visual seam then continued to the bottom. Can anyone help
me with an explaination so that I can reproduce with new veneer?
Thanks,
Rob

Mike, Ed, Thanks for the info! Really Appreciate it!

Rob


"Ed Chapman" wrote in message m...
I had the same question when restoring our 1015. A friend of ours that used
to restore them said he always used Minwax Early American for the walnut
areas. He said it was the best match to the original and ours turned out
great!
DC
"rob" wrote in message
m...
Any help please - could really use it?
Thanks


(rob) wrote in message
. com...
I'm curoius what stains, dies, etc. people have found best to use
while refinishing a 1015 for both the lighter maple front and the
darker walnut knees and box. Also my box was missing most of the
outside veneer. It looks like from marks on my box and pictures of
others that the large area of walnut on the sides stopped at the knee
level with a visual seam then continued to the bottom. Can anyone help
me with an explaination so that I can reproduce with new veneer?
Thanks,
Rob