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Tech Help: AMI Rowe RI-1
Hello all,
I am a pinball hobbiest having restored many classic machine. Today I got a bargain on a Rowe AMI RI-1 Jukebox. It is old and has a couple of problems (as expected) and hope you can offer some advice. The problem is that the turntable isnt turning at the correct 45RPM speed, is very very slow. I thought it may have been a drive belt problem but I dont see a drive belt in it. Any advice on this greatly appreciated. oh, and also, who is a good jukebox parts supplier for the AMI Rowe jukes? Regards all, Cliff |
#2
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Tech Help: AMI Rowe RI-1
On Nov 13, 4:17*pm, "Cliff Tucker" wrote:
Hello all, I am a pinball hobbiest having restored many classic machine. Today I got a bargain on a Rowe AMI RI-1 Jukebox. It is old and has a couple of problems (as expected) and hope you can offer some advice. The problem is that the turntable isnt turning at the correct 45RPM speed, is very very slow. I thought it may have been a drive belt problem but I dont see a drive belt in it. Any advice on this greatly appreciated. oh, and also, who is a good jukebox parts supplier for the AMI Rowe jukes? Regards all, Cliff these have an idler wheel that goes between the turntable and the motor drive shaft. For starters, make sure that the idler wheel is riding on the thickest part of the 2 surfaces at the end of the shaft for 45 rpm. The thinner section (at the tip) is for 33 1/3 RPM. To access this, you can pull the turntable straight up, with one hand pulling at each side Failing that, you can check that the turntable is moving freely, you can check the hole where the centre shaft goes in, put a couple of drops of oil in there, and on the shaft. Put it back in and turn it. When putting back, push the idler wheel inwards with your finger, as you lower the turntable so the wheel goes underneath the turntable rim. A last thing you can do, is underneath the turntable shaft housing there is a metal plate with 2 screws (facing down). You can remove this, and there will be a white nylon spacer and nylon (possibly not nylon , but who knows) washer. This washer is the TT thrust bearing. These do wear over the years, and a groove appears with metal embedded in it, but you can turn the bearing upside down, and put it back, and it should be ok for a long time yet. If worn on both sides, you will need to replace it. You probably wont be able to get one, but you never know, ROWE made bubblers and some other models with 45s in them for some time after cd came out (I think) and these later models would likely have the same bearing. Failing this I have heard of people getting offcuts of polycarbonate of that same thickness, cutting them to size and putting them in with no problems. Places that make skylights usually use polycarbonate, and have plenty of offcuts or small pieces for sale (or free Finally, you may have worn turntable motor bearings, in which case you will need a new motor, or get the bearings replaced. This is unlikely to be cheap. Other methods used involve force fitting a spring over the motor shaft to increase the diameter and therefore speed. Trial and error is the order of the day here. Australian made Rowe AMI's are easier as they used a locally made motor with a brass shaft that also was much thicker (due to it being a much slower RPM 2 pole 50HZ motor rather than the 4 pole 60HZ used in USA) , you can tin this brass with solder, and sand it down as needed to get the right diameter. (Note this also if buying replacement motors on Ebay from countries that use 50HZ mains, (UK, Europe, Australia). the shaft is usually a different diameter and they will run too fast on US mains. ) |
#3
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Tech Help: AMI Rowe RI-1
Thanks Kreed. Right on brother.
I found the spring on the motor shaft and moved it up a little, bingo, correct speed all fixed! Also I went over the button controls (youve gotta luv the 70's, just about everything is repairable on these things) and cleaned the switch innards, resoldered and repaired. There is only one more question, this is toughie I think but I'll give it a go .. How do you adjust the play armature (for want of a better name - the arm with the needle on it) to hit the record correctly and when the song is over to retract properly at the end? At present I have to manually put the arm on to the record (misses the record start by a couple of millimeters and at the end force the play arm (needle) once a again by a couple of mill. Me thinks it has something to do with the reed switch, am I right? Fortunately, I have purchased a repro manual for the RI-2 so I learn a lot more when I get it. very kind regards Cliff "kreed" wrote in message ... On Nov 13, 4:17 pm, "Cliff Tucker" wrote: Hello all, I am a pinball hobbiest having restored many classic machine. Today I got a bargain on a Rowe AMI RI-1 Jukebox. It is old and has a couple of problems (as expected) and hope you can offer some advice. The problem is that the turntable isnt turning at the correct 45RPM speed, is very very slow. I thought it may have been a drive belt problem but I dont see a drive belt in it. Any advice on this greatly appreciated. oh, and also, who is a good jukebox parts supplier for the AMI Rowe jukes? Regards all, Cliff these have an idler wheel that goes between the turntable and the motor drive shaft. For starters, make sure that the idler wheel is riding on the thickest part of the 2 surfaces at the end of the shaft for 45 rpm. The thinner section (at the tip) is for 33 1/3 RPM. To access this, you can pull the turntable straight up, with one hand pulling at each side Failing that, you can check that the turntable is moving freely, you can check the hole where the centre shaft goes in, put a couple of drops of oil in there, and on the shaft. Put it back in and turn it. When putting back, push the idler wheel inwards with your finger, as you lower the turntable so the wheel goes underneath the turntable rim. A last thing you can do, is underneath the turntable shaft housing there is a metal plate with 2 screws (facing down). You can remove this, and there will be a white nylon spacer and nylon (possibly not nylon , but who knows) washer. This washer is the TT thrust bearing. These do wear over the years, and a groove appears with metal embedded in it, but you can turn the bearing upside down, and put it back, and it should be ok for a long time yet. If worn on both sides, you will need to replace it. You probably wont be able to get one, but you never know, ROWE made bubblers and some other models with 45s in them for some time after cd came out (I think) and these later models would likely have the same bearing. Failing this I have heard of people getting offcuts of polycarbonate of that same thickness, cutting them to size and putting them in with no problems. Places that make skylights usually use polycarbonate, and have plenty of offcuts or small pieces for sale (or free Finally, you may have worn turntable motor bearings, in which case you will need a new motor, or get the bearings replaced. This is unlikely to be cheap. Other methods used involve force fitting a spring over the motor shaft to increase the diameter and therefore speed. Trial and error is the order of the day here. Australian made Rowe AMI's are easier as they used a locally made motor with a brass shaft that also was much thicker (due to it being a much slower RPM 2 pole 50HZ motor rather than the 4 pole 60HZ used in USA) , you can tin this brass with solder, and sand it down as needed to get the right diameter. (Note this also if buying replacement motors on Ebay from countries that use 50HZ mains, (UK, Europe, Australia). the shaft is usually a different diameter and they will run too fast on US mains. ) |
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Tech Help: AMI Rowe RI-1
On Nov 14, 8:42*pm, "Cliff Tucker" wrote:
Thanks Kreed. Right on brother. I found the spring on the motor shaft and moved it up a little, bingo, correct speed all fixed! Also I went over the button controls (youve gotta luv the 70's, just about everything is repairable on these things) and cleaned the switch innards, resoldered and repaired. There is only one more question, this is toughie I think but I'll give it a go . How do you adjust the play armature (for want of a better name - the arm with the needle on it) to hit the record correctly and when the song is over to retract properly at the end? At present I have to manually put the arm on to the record (misses the record start by a couple of millimeters and at the end force the play arm (needle) once a again by a couple of mill. Me thinks it has something to do with the reed switch, am I right? Fortunately, I have purchased a repro manual for the RI-2 so I learn a lot more when I get it. very kind regards Cliff First of all - an RI-2 manual is not a good idea as the RI-2 is a Solid state machine, and yours is electro mechanical (both machines look similar from the outside though). The wiring and electrical system is TOTALLY and entirely different, and most of the mechanical parts used in the RI-1 are no longer present in the RI-2 (have been replaced with computer boards). If you cannot get an RI-1 manual, you could get a manual for a similar ELECTRO MECHANICAL model such as a TI 2, MM4-6 or similar, as this will have all the adjustments for the search unit, stopping switch plate assembly, If I have read wrong and you have an RI-2, then ignore this comment. --------------- with either model of RI, this is the tonearm setdown and end adjustment. These are 2 separate processes and adjustments You will see at the back, there is a plate behind and below the back of the arm assembly with a hex head bolt visible. You loosen this slightly and move (nudge) the arm slightly to the right, then retighten when you are satisfied with the position. Make a selection and as the arm is dropping to go on the record, turn the power switch OFF as it drops and touches the record. Adjust it at this point so it is slightly to the right (couple of MM) of the first groove. A very long record such as "stairway to heaven" by LED zeppelin (if available) is ideal for this due to the much longer track length, the start point will be as close to the edge as you are likely to find. Otherwise, try a few different records at random, and readjust if needed, and later if you find when playing records that the set down point is not quite right TO adjust the end point, take a look at the reed switch (glass tube about 2" long) that is under the tonearm in front of the pivot point. You will find 1 or 2 screws (cant remember) that secure the bracket for this reed switch, loosen them and gently nudge the assembly to the left (to cut off sooner) or right (to cut off later.) Be careful not to handle or put pressure on the glass tube, as if it cracks, you are stuffed. Normal small reed switches like off alarm systems tend not to work here, the contacts tend to stick together permanently due to the magnet used being too strong) Again the stairway to heaven record is good for this adjustment due to its long playing time as you can set it to cut off right at the end of the song, as there is little gap between the end of the song and the final groove. "kreed" wrote in message ... On Nov 13, 4:17 pm, "Cliff Tucker" wrote: Hello all, I am a pinball hobbiest having restored many classic machine. Today I got a bargain on a Rowe AMI RI-1 Jukebox. It is old and has a couple of problems (as expected) and hope you can offer some advice. The problem is that the turntable isnt turning at the correct 45RPM speed, is very very slow. I thought it may have been a drive belt problem but I dont see a drive belt in it. Any advice on this greatly appreciated. oh, and also, who is a good jukebox parts supplier for the AMI Rowe jukes? Regards all, Cliff these have an idler wheel that goes between the turntable and the motor drive shaft. * For starters, make sure that the idler wheel is riding on the thickest part of the 2 surfaces at the end of the shaft for 45 rpm. The thinner section (at the tip) is for 33 1/3 RPM. To access this, you can pull the turntable straight up, with one hand pulling at each side Failing that, you can check that the turntable is moving freely, you can check the hole where the centre shaft goes in, put a couple of drops of oil in there, and on the shaft. *Put it back in and turn it. When putting back, push the idler wheel inwards with your finger, as you lower the turntable so the wheel goes underneath the turntable rim. A last thing you can do, is underneath the turntable shaft housing there is a metal plate with 2 screws (facing down). *You can remove this, and there will be a white nylon spacer and nylon (possibly not nylon , but who knows) washer. This washer is the TT thrust bearing. These do wear over the years, and a groove appears with metal embedded in it, *but you can turn the bearing upside down, and put it back, and it should be ok for a long time yet. If worn on both sides, you will need to replace it. You probably wont be able to get one, but you never know, ROWE *made bubblers and some other models with 45s in them for some time after cd came out (I think) and these later models would likely have the same bearing. Failing this I have heard of people getting offcuts of polycarbonate of that same thickness, cutting them to size and putting them in with no problems. *Places that make skylights usually use polycarbonate, and have plenty of offcuts or small pieces for sale (or free Finally, you may have worn turntable motor bearings, in which case you will need a new motor, or get the bearings replaced. This is unlikely to be cheap. Other methods used involve force fitting a spring over the motor shaft to increase the diameter and therefore speed. Trial and error is the order of the day here. Australian made Rowe AMI's are easier as they used a locally made motor with a brass shaft that also was much thicker (due to it being a much slower RPM *2 pole 50HZ motor rather than the 4 pole 60HZ used in USA) , you can tin this brass with solder, and sand it down as needed to get the right diameter. (Note this also if buying replacement motors on Ebay from countries that use 50HZ mains, (UK, Europe, Australia). the shaft is usually a different diameter and they will run too fast on US mains. ) |
#5
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Tech Help: AMI Rowe RI-1
On Sunday, November 13, 2011 at 1:17:17 AM UTC-5, Cliff Tucker wrote:
Hello all, I am a pinball hobbiest having restored many classic machine. Today I got a bargain on a Rowe AMI RI-1 Jukebox. It is old and has a couple of problems (as expected) and hope you can offer some advice. The problem is that the turntable isnt turning at the correct 45RPM speed, is very very slow. I thought it may have been a drive belt problem but I dont see a drive belt in it. Any advice on this greatly appreciated. oh, and also, who is a good jukebox parts supplier for the AMI Rowe jukes? Regards all, Cliff |
#6
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Quote:
The 1000, 1100 and 1200 mechanisms use an idlerwheel that is mounted on a linkage that makes the idlerwheel turn against the inside edge of the turntable. If you are in the USA then the turntable motor turns at 45 rpm at 60 hz in Europe and most other places the supply is at 50 hz this is achieved by the use of a speed spring on the turntable motor shaft. You need to remove the turntable, the idlerwheel and linkage to wash them in soapy warm water to remove any traces of old oil. Once rinced and dryed lubricate with one drop of oil on each of the pivot points on the linkage and a smear of oil on the turntable shaft. It is best to check the bearings on the turntable motor for wear, you should be able to full the shaft up on the motor, but there should not be any side to side or backward and forward movement on the shaft whilst holding the motor firmly. We supply parts for your jukebox and undertake repairs but we are in the UK. Regards Alan Alan Hood ami-man UK |
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