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Tech: Seeburg Mech: after the cleaning



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 8th 04, 08:22 PM
Ace
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Default Tech: Seeburg Mech: after the cleaning

I took the plunge and cleaned my 220 mech. using the cleaner others
have posted on (Westley blech white). I was hesitant to use it, since
the warning label said not to use it on aluminum or magnesium. It
worked great.

I spent about 30 min. blowing it dry with comp. air. I oiled / lubed
it per the book, although I wish the diagrams would have been bigger.

I "think" it is partially seized-up now. The motor is out, and it's
very hard to turn the rubber motor shaft by hand. Should it be easy to
turn? Any suggestions?

Also, the book doesn't say which type of lube to use on the "turntable
drive shaft gear (the big one on top that looks like it's made out of
plastic). Should I use Lubriplate, or the mech oil?

Is mine damaged, or will it start to ease up once all the gears and
bearings have been oiled? Help!

Ace

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  #2  
Old December 8th 04, 10:54 PM
Joseph A. Tony Dziedzic
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Pop the upper motor shaft bearing assembly off and clean that with Gum-Out or
some other strong degreaser; you've probably got gunked-up oil in that
bearing. Be careful not to lose the tiny steel thrust bearing that sits in
the top of the bearing assembly. (The bearing assembly is the cylindrical
part with a large hex nut that sits on the top of the carriage assembly just
above the motor shaft; it's held in place by four screws.)

Note that it's also possible that when you pulled the motor out the downward
force exerted on the motor drive worm gear shaft may have wedged it against
the fiber gear. Try a light upward tap or two on the bottom of the shaft to
free it up.

The fiber gear should be lubricated with Lubriplate.

Tony

In article .com, "Ace"
wrote:
I took the plunge and cleaned my 220 mech. using the cleaner others
have posted on (Westley blech white). I was hesitant to use it, since
the warning label said not to use it on aluminum or magnesium. It
worked great.

I spent about 30 min. blowing it dry with comp. air. I oiled / lubed
it per the book, although I wish the diagrams would have been bigger.

I "think" it is partially seized-up now. The motor is out, and it's
very hard to turn the rubber motor shaft by hand. Should it be easy to
turn? Any suggestions?

Also, the book doesn't say which type of lube to use on the "turntable
drive shaft gear (the big one on top that looks like it's made out of
plastic). Should I use Lubriplate, or the mech oil?

Is mine damaged, or will it start to ease up once all the gears and
bearings have been oiled? Help!

Ace

  #3  
Old December 9th 04, 04:01 AM
Ken G.
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Posts: n/a
Default

Hmmm i have cleaned several seeburgs with that soap and the garden hose
...

I do always remove the whole worm gear clutch assembly off the back ( i
didnt mention that before ) before i clean .
This gives you the chance to totaly get that assembly cleaned and be
able to turn the cam gear through its motions while oiling everything
....... and see how that motor rubber turns .
It would turn a bit stiff if the mech is in mid stream otherwise it
should turn fairly easy .
Like someone said it may just be pulled down to far .
Put the motor back in place & see how it turns it should turn with one
finger .


  #4  
Old December 9th 04, 01:35 PM
Ace
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After letting it sit overnight, it appears to have un-stuck itself. I
guess letting the oil set for a time helped? Anyway, it turns pretty
freely now. (sigh of relief!).

I do have a couple of questions:

The carriage track - lubriplate or oil ?

What about the camshaft - I coudn't find it on the lube chart on which
type to use.

Finally, does the motor reverse eletrically, or is there a reverse
gear on the mech to make it scan in both directions?
Thanks all for helping - Mark "Ace"

  #5  
Old December 9th 04, 01:54 PM
Jjmscf
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Good question on the lube.I would probably put a thin coat of lubriplate on the
carriage track.Don't know about the camshaft.The motor reverses electrically
via the reversing switch on the front of the mech.Has a paddle that easily
switches it left or right.Spring loaded so it stays one way or the other when
gets switched.It gets activated at each end of the mechanism as it scans.If you
ever remove the mech from the carriage frame you got to be careful because it
can easily be damaged.



After letting it sit overnight, it appears to have un-stuck itself. I
guess letting the oil set for a time helped? Anyway, it turns pretty
freely now. (sigh of relief!).

I do have a couple of questions:

The carriage track - lubriplate or oil ?

What about the camshaft - I coudn't find it on the lube chart on which
type to use.

Finally, does the motor reverse eletrically, or is there a reverse
gear on the mech to make it scan in both directions?
Thanks all for helping - Mark "Ace"









 




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