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#1
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Possible fake McGwire Rookie?
I just purchased a 1985 Topps Factory set from EBay, including the
McGwire rookie card #401 (I'll call this CARD-A). I am comparing it now to another McGwire rookie that I have courtesy of my wife (I believe this card was purchased before 1997, hopefully it is genuine - CARD-B) and to a Flavio Alfaro USA Baseball Team card pulled from the 1985 set (CARD-C). Anyhow, CARD-A was pulled out and put in a top loader, which made me a bit suspicious right off the bat. Comparing it to the other two cards, I notice that CARD-A appears a bit sharper, with more contrast than the other two. But the biggest difference is that the reds in CARD-A (US Baseball Team logo, uniform, name and position at bottom of card) are a deep red, wile on CARD-B and CARD-C these areas are an orange-red color. The blue shades on CARD-A are also a bit deeper than on CARD-B. However, the centering on CARD-A is a bit off (I read here that most fakes have excellent centering). So, what's the chance that CARD-A is a fake? What's the easiest way to tell short of sending the card to PSA / BGS to be graded? |
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#2
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First, never buy a factory set that isn't sealed ...
Second, Use the PayPal buyer protection option. Third, if the card is a fake there are many possible ways to tell if it could be fake. Does the photo appear to be dotty as opposed to the colors looking clean and complete. Another thing counterfeiters can't reproduce exactly is the card stock. Many fakes from the 80's will have a much heavier stock. Take an 85 common you don't need and bend it slightly, not enough to crease it but a little to feel the stock. NOW CAREFULLY do the same to CARD A. Be careful, if it is real you don't want to damage it. If the card feels thicker or heavier it is probably a fake. If you were sold a fake, then use every possible option to rectify this trade. Ask that the dealer take a return and pay for return shipping. If he refuses, remind him that selling counterfeits is considered Theft by Deception and Government agencies such as The USPS and FBI are the enforcing agencies for violations of the law which involve online trading and use of the mail to deliver such deceptive goods. AS ALWAYS E-BAY IS BUYER BEWARE. As long as the seller fees get paid, they don't care about you. They may suspend the sellers account if you can prove the card is a fake. If worse comes to worst and you just can't tell, submit it to BGS or PSA for grading, if it is fake, they will know. Hope this helps. Patrick "jrbdmb" wrote in message om... I just purchased a 1985 Topps Factory set from EBay, including the McGwire rookie card #401 (I'll call this CARD-A). I am comparing it now to another McGwire rookie that I have courtesy of my wife (I believe this card was purchased before 1997, hopefully it is genuine - CARD-B) and to a Flavio Alfaro USA Baseball Team card pulled from the 1985 set (CARD-C). Anyhow, CARD-A was pulled out and put in a top loader, which made me a bit suspicious right off the bat. Comparing it to the other two cards, I notice that CARD-A appears a bit sharper, with more contrast than the other two. But the biggest difference is that the reds in CARD-A (US Baseball Team logo, uniform, name and position at bottom of card) are a deep red, wile on CARD-B and CARD-C these areas are an orange-red color. The blue shades on CARD-A are also a bit deeper than on CARD-B. However, the centering on CARD-A is a bit off (I read here that most fakes have excellent centering). So, what's the chance that CARD-A is a fake? What's the easiest way to tell short of sending the card to PSA / BGS to be graded? |
#3
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It could be that Card A is a Tiffany
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#4
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Considering that the card is off-center both vertically and
horizontally and wouldn't get any better than a 7 or 7.5 with BGS, it's probably not worth the money to get it graded. (Maybe I will send it to PSA or BGS someday just for grins, when they run one of their specials.) The card's print quality is very good , and the card stock (visual check, not bending) appears the same as other cards in the set. I got a decent price for the set and knew I was taking a bit of a risk on the McGwire, but from what you've said it looks legit. I guess with the quality control in place back then variations in color between cards is not unusual. Thanks for the info. "Patrick W. Schubert Sr." wrote in message ... First, never buy a factory set that isn't sealed ... Second, Use the PayPal buyer protection option. Third, if the card is a fake there are many possible ways to tell if it could be fake. Does the photo appear to be dotty as opposed to the colors looking clean and complete. Another thing counterfeiters can't reproduce exactly is the card stock. Many fakes from the 80's will have a much heavier stock. Take an 85 common you don't need and bend it slightly, not enough to crease it but a little to feel the stock. NOW CAREFULLY do the same to CARD A. Be careful, if it is real you don't want to damage it. If the card feels thicker or heavier it is probably a fake. If you were sold a fake, then use every possible option to rectify this trade. Ask that the dealer take a return and pay for return shipping. If he refuses, remind him that selling counterfeits is considered Theft by Deception and Government agencies such as The USPS and FBI are the enforcing agencies for violations of the law which involve online trading and use of the mail to deliver such deceptive goods. AS ALWAYS E-BAY IS BUYER BEWARE. As long as the seller fees get paid, they don't care about you. They may suspend the sellers account if you can prove the card is a fake. If worse comes to worst and you just can't tell, submit it to BGS or PSA for grading, if it is fake, they will know. Hope this helps. Patrick "jrbdmb" wrote in message om... I just purchased a 1985 Topps Factory set from EBay, including the McGwire rookie card #401 (I'll call this CARD-A). I am comparing it now to another McGwire rookie that I have courtesy of my wife (I believe this card was purchased before 1997, hopefully it is genuine - CARD-B) and to a Flavio Alfaro USA Baseball Team card pulled from the 1985 set (CARD-C). Anyhow, CARD-A was pulled out and put in a top loader, which made me a bit suspicious right off the bat. Comparing it to the other two cards, I notice that CARD-A appears a bit sharper, with more contrast than the other two. But the biggest difference is that the reds in CARD-A (US Baseball Team logo, uniform, name and position at bottom of card) are a deep red, wile on CARD-B and CARD-C these areas are an orange-red color. The blue shades on CARD-A are also a bit deeper than on CARD-B. However, the centering on CARD-A is a bit off (I read here that most fakes have excellent centering). So, what's the chance that CARD-A is a fake? What's the easiest way to tell short of sending the card to PSA / BGS to be graded? |
#5
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On the regular 1985 Topps Mcgwire's that were counterfeited one of the easy
ways to tell right off was if it has a smoother surface compared any other common 1985 Topps card. The 1985 Topps were printed at different times & days and printing did vary quite a bit. I have seen 5 distinct different legit uncut sheets with print differences including where you mentioned in the color variable but the fake ones you will typically see have a smooth surface where the Topps paper has grain in it front & back more so than the fakes. If you can't tell send it to PSA or take it to a PSA dealer that may shed some light. Most people that got in after the 1980's would have know clue to what Topps was doing back then or the 4 million or so Mcgwires they printed but can spend a couple dollars to get it graded and make it look pretty. "BlackJet76" wrote in message ... It could be that Card A is a Tiffany |
#6
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Color variations are quite common with those. If you like a deep red, you
can look on eBay at several different auctions to observe the variations, and go after the reddest-looking ones. -- Chris Cathcart http://geocities.com/cathcacr e-addresss: leave out [revolmaps] "jrbdmb" wrote in message om... I just purchased a 1985 Topps Factory set from EBay, including the McGwire rookie card #401 (I'll call this CARD-A). I am comparing it now to another McGwire rookie that I have courtesy of my wife (I believe this card was purchased before 1997, hopefully it is genuine - CARD-B) and to a Flavio Alfaro USA Baseball Team card pulled from the 1985 set (CARD-C). Anyhow, CARD-A was pulled out and put in a top loader, which made me a bit suspicious right off the bat. Comparing it to the other two cards, I notice that CARD-A appears a bit sharper, with more contrast than the other two. But the biggest difference is that the reds in CARD-A (US Baseball Team logo, uniform, name and position at bottom of card) are a deep red, wile on CARD-B and CARD-C these areas are an orange-red color. The blue shades on CARD-A are also a bit deeper than on CARD-B. However, the centering on CARD-A is a bit off (I read here that most fakes have excellent centering). So, what's the chance that CARD-A is a fake? What's the easiest way to tell short of sending the card to PSA / BGS to be graded? |
#7
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Look at Big Mac's teeth... This is how you tell... Also, under
magnification, you can see obvious print dots in the letters on the fake... L8r, Rattlehead |
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