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Possible fake McGwire Rookie?



 
 
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  #1  
Old November 11th 04, 03:57 PM
jrbdmb
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Default Possible fake McGwire Rookie?

I just purchased a 1985 Topps Factory set from EBay, including the
McGwire rookie card #401 (I'll call this CARD-A). I am comparing it
now to another McGwire rookie that I have courtesy of my wife (I
believe this card was purchased before 1997, hopefully it is genuine -
CARD-B) and to a Flavio Alfaro USA Baseball Team card pulled from the
1985 set (CARD-C).

Anyhow, CARD-A was pulled out and put in a top loader, which made me a
bit suspicious right off the bat. Comparing it to the other two
cards, I notice that CARD-A appears a bit sharper, with more contrast
than the other two. But the biggest difference is that the reds in
CARD-A (US Baseball Team logo, uniform, name and position at bottom of
card) are a deep red, wile on CARD-B and CARD-C these areas are an
orange-red color. The blue shades on CARD-A are also a bit deeper
than on CARD-B. However, the centering on CARD-A is a bit off (I read
here that most fakes have excellent centering).

So, what's the chance that CARD-A is a fake? What's the easiest way
to tell short of sending the card to PSA / BGS to be graded?
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  #2  
Old November 11th 04, 06:22 PM
Patrick W. Schubert Sr.
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Default

First, never buy a factory set that isn't sealed ...

Second, Use the PayPal buyer protection option.

Third, if the card is a fake there are many possible ways to tell if it
could be fake. Does the photo appear to be dotty as opposed to the colors
looking clean and complete. Another thing counterfeiters can't reproduce
exactly is the card stock. Many fakes from the 80's will have a much
heavier stock. Take an 85 common you don't need and bend it slightly, not
enough to crease it but a little to feel the stock. NOW CAREFULLY do the
same to CARD A. Be careful, if it is real you don't want to damage it. If
the card feels thicker or heavier it is probably a fake.

If you were sold a fake, then use every possible option to rectify this
trade. Ask that the dealer take a return and pay for return shipping. If
he refuses, remind him that selling counterfeits is considered Theft by
Deception and Government agencies such as The USPS and FBI are the enforcing
agencies for violations of the law which involve online trading and use of
the mail to deliver such deceptive goods.

AS ALWAYS E-BAY IS BUYER BEWARE. As long as the seller fees get paid, they
don't care about you. They may suspend the sellers account if you can prove
the card is a fake. If worse comes to worst and you just can't tell, submit
it to BGS or PSA for grading, if it is fake, they will know.

Hope this helps.

Patrick
"jrbdmb" wrote in message
om...
I just purchased a 1985 Topps Factory set from EBay, including the
McGwire rookie card #401 (I'll call this CARD-A). I am comparing it
now to another McGwire rookie that I have courtesy of my wife (I
believe this card was purchased before 1997, hopefully it is genuine -
CARD-B) and to a Flavio Alfaro USA Baseball Team card pulled from the
1985 set (CARD-C).

Anyhow, CARD-A was pulled out and put in a top loader, which made me a
bit suspicious right off the bat. Comparing it to the other two
cards, I notice that CARD-A appears a bit sharper, with more contrast
than the other two. But the biggest difference is that the reds in
CARD-A (US Baseball Team logo, uniform, name and position at bottom of
card) are a deep red, wile on CARD-B and CARD-C these areas are an
orange-red color. The blue shades on CARD-A are also a bit deeper
than on CARD-B. However, the centering on CARD-A is a bit off (I read
here that most fakes have excellent centering).

So, what's the chance that CARD-A is a fake? What's the easiest way
to tell short of sending the card to PSA / BGS to be graded?



  #3  
Old November 12th 04, 05:24 AM
BlackJet76
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It could be that Card A is a Tiffany
  #4  
Old November 12th 04, 02:32 PM
jrbdmb
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Considering that the card is off-center both vertically and
horizontally and wouldn't get any better than a 7 or 7.5 with BGS,
it's probably not worth the money to get it graded. (Maybe I will
send it to PSA or BGS someday just for grins, when they run one of
their specials.)

The card's print quality is very good , and the card stock (visual
check, not bending) appears the same as other cards in the set. I got
a decent price for the set and knew I was taking a bit of a risk on
the McGwire, but from what you've said it looks legit. I guess with
the quality control in place back then variations in color between
cards is not unusual. Thanks for the info.



"Patrick W. Schubert Sr." wrote in message ...
First, never buy a factory set that isn't sealed ...

Second, Use the PayPal buyer protection option.

Third, if the card is a fake there are many possible ways to tell if it
could be fake. Does the photo appear to be dotty as opposed to the colors
looking clean and complete. Another thing counterfeiters can't reproduce
exactly is the card stock. Many fakes from the 80's will have a much
heavier stock. Take an 85 common you don't need and bend it slightly, not
enough to crease it but a little to feel the stock. NOW CAREFULLY do the
same to CARD A. Be careful, if it is real you don't want to damage it. If
the card feels thicker or heavier it is probably a fake.

If you were sold a fake, then use every possible option to rectify this
trade. Ask that the dealer take a return and pay for return shipping. If
he refuses, remind him that selling counterfeits is considered Theft by
Deception and Government agencies such as The USPS and FBI are the enforcing
agencies for violations of the law which involve online trading and use of
the mail to deliver such deceptive goods.

AS ALWAYS E-BAY IS BUYER BEWARE. As long as the seller fees get paid, they
don't care about you. They may suspend the sellers account if you can prove
the card is a fake. If worse comes to worst and you just can't tell, submit
it to BGS or PSA for grading, if it is fake, they will know.

Hope this helps.

Patrick
"jrbdmb" wrote in message
om...
I just purchased a 1985 Topps Factory set from EBay, including the
McGwire rookie card #401 (I'll call this CARD-A). I am comparing it
now to another McGwire rookie that I have courtesy of my wife (I
believe this card was purchased before 1997, hopefully it is genuine -
CARD-B) and to a Flavio Alfaro USA Baseball Team card pulled from the
1985 set (CARD-C).

Anyhow, CARD-A was pulled out and put in a top loader, which made me a
bit suspicious right off the bat. Comparing it to the other two
cards, I notice that CARD-A appears a bit sharper, with more contrast
than the other two. But the biggest difference is that the reds in
CARD-A (US Baseball Team logo, uniform, name and position at bottom of
card) are a deep red, wile on CARD-B and CARD-C these areas are an
orange-red color. The blue shades on CARD-A are also a bit deeper
than on CARD-B. However, the centering on CARD-A is a bit off (I read
here that most fakes have excellent centering).

So, what's the chance that CARD-A is a fake? What's the easiest way
to tell short of sending the card to PSA / BGS to be graded?

  #5  
Old November 13th 04, 12:02 AM
pkstore2
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Posts: n/a
Default

On the regular 1985 Topps Mcgwire's that were counterfeited one of the easy
ways to tell right off was if it has a smoother surface compared any other
common 1985 Topps card. The 1985 Topps were printed at different times &
days and printing did vary quite a bit. I have seen 5 distinct different
legit uncut sheets with print differences including where you mentioned in
the color variable but the fake ones you will typically see have a smooth
surface where the Topps paper has grain in it front & back more so than the
fakes. If you can't tell send it to PSA or take it to a PSA dealer that may
shed some light. Most people that got in after the 1980's would have know
clue to what Topps was doing back then or the 4 million or so Mcgwires they
printed but can spend a couple dollars to get it graded and make it look
pretty.
"BlackJet76" wrote in message
...
It could be that Card A is a Tiffany



  #6  
Old November 13th 04, 03:44 AM
Chris Cathcart
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Posts: n/a
Default

Color variations are quite common with those. If you like a deep red, you
can look on eBay at several different auctions to observe the variations,
and go after the reddest-looking ones.

--
Chris Cathcart
http://geocities.com/cathcacr
e-addresss: leave out [revolmaps]


"jrbdmb" wrote in message
om...
I just purchased a 1985 Topps Factory set from EBay, including the
McGwire rookie card #401 (I'll call this CARD-A). I am comparing it
now to another McGwire rookie that I have courtesy of my wife (I
believe this card was purchased before 1997, hopefully it is genuine -
CARD-B) and to a Flavio Alfaro USA Baseball Team card pulled from the
1985 set (CARD-C).

Anyhow, CARD-A was pulled out and put in a top loader, which made me a
bit suspicious right off the bat. Comparing it to the other two
cards, I notice that CARD-A appears a bit sharper, with more contrast
than the other two. But the biggest difference is that the reds in
CARD-A (US Baseball Team logo, uniform, name and position at bottom of
card) are a deep red, wile on CARD-B and CARD-C these areas are an
orange-red color. The blue shades on CARD-A are also a bit deeper
than on CARD-B. However, the centering on CARD-A is a bit off (I read
here that most fakes have excellent centering).

So, what's the chance that CARD-A is a fake? What's the easiest way
to tell short of sending the card to PSA / BGS to be graded?



  #7  
Old November 23rd 04, 04:05 AM
Rattlehead
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Default

Look at Big Mac's teeth... This is how you tell... Also, under
magnification, you can see obvious print dots in the letters on the fake...


L8r,
Rattlehead



 




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