Is tape baking an option?

Well, it finally happened. I've been doing some archiving this past
weekend, converting my reel to reel tapes to digital format. While in
the process, I've hit one particular tape that is being a problem. The
first sign was when the tape snapped. After this, I began to worry
naturally. I spliced it back together and decided to try another run,
hoping that it was an isolated incident.

As I started copying, the high end began disappearing. I pulled the
tape back and saw my tape head coated in oxide dust. I tried one more
run and the same thing happened.

What I was wondering, will tape baking fix these problems, or will it
make them worse?

you need some high end tape luberacant that the pros use to get that old
tape to play one last time you brush it on with a cotton swab and hope for
the best as it plays


"Desdinova" wrote in message
oups.com...
Well, it finally happened. I've been doing some archiving this past
weekend, converting my reel to reel tapes to digital format. While in
the process, I've hit one particular tape that is being a problem. The
first sign was when the tape snapped. After this, I began to worry
naturally. I spliced it back together and decided to try another run,
hoping that it was an isolated incident.

As I started copying, the high end began disappearing. I pulled the
tape back and saw my tape head coated in oxide dust. I tried one more
run and the same thing happened.

What I was wondering, will tape baking fix these problems, or will it
make them worse?

Desdinova wrote:
Well, it finally happened. I've been doing some archiving this past
weekend, converting my reel to reel tapes to digital format. While in
the process, I've hit one particular tape that is being a problem. The
first sign was when the tape snapped. After this, I began to worry
naturally. I spliced it back together and decided to try another run,
hoping that it was an isolated incident.

As I started copying, the high end began disappearing. I pulled the
tape back and saw my tape head coated in oxide dust. I tried one more
run and the same thing happened.

What I was wondering, will tape baking fix these problems, or will it
make them worse?



YES, tape baking will help- it will keep the oxide attached to the
backing and help preserve it- don't play the tapes anymore in that
condition, as they will self destruct.

Thanks alot.

What I'm doing right now is re-packing the tape onto a metal reel so
it's nice and smooth. I've rigged it up so that the only thing the tape
passes through is the capstan and pinch roller (no rubbing).

I did some research online, and everyone seems to agree that a tape
should be baked at 130 F. I'm a little worried about using the food
dehydrator that I got from my parents, since there is no temperature
control on it. I'll be heating it up and taking a temperature reading
before I stick anything in it. If this doesn't work, my workplace has a
low heat oven that will provide the temperature I need. I'm almost
thinking to use that instead, but we'll see how it goes.

I believe the tape that is flaking is that BASF **** that comes in the
gray and white plastic boxes.

On 7 Aug 2005 09:23:43 -0700, "Desdinova"
wrote:

What I was wondering, will tape baking fix these problems, or will it
make them worse? snip

The tape's already destroyed...throw it out. Was it a Scotch or BASF?
Both used water based binders, and are well known for this type of
failure when exposed to moisture for too long. I can't think of any
single valid reason for "baking" an 8 track, unless it contains
exceedingly rare program material, and even then, the pancake would
have to me removed from the hub, not that hard a job. Also, since
cart tape is extremely thin, it doesn't respond well to baking without
edge curl, which renders tracks 1 and 8 nearly unusable.

Toss it and try again.

dB

On Sun, 07 Aug 2005 16:42:47 GMT, "Andy" wrote:

you need some high end tape luberacant that the pros use to get that old
tape to play one last time you brush it on with a cotton swab and hope for
the best as it plays snip

That'll just help the oxide shed even faster. It's trash...junk it.

dB

On 7 Aug 2005 10:22:45 -0700, "DICK White"
wrote:

YES, tape baking will snip

NEVER listen to Charlie Nudo on ANY technical point. He's a first
class bull**** artist and con man.

help- it will keep the oxide attached to the
backing and help preserve it- snip

More bull****. Do NOT pay any attention to this fraudster and
bull****ter. He wouldn't know analog tape if I'd shoved a 10½" reel
of his up his huge ass.

On 7 Aug 2005 11:52:42 -0700, "Desdinova"
wrote:

I believe the tape that is flaking is that BASF **** that comes in the
gray and white plastic boxes. snip

Once BASF starts to separate, it's all over. Forget it. You'll just
wind up with a piece of brown Mylar and all the oxide on the leading
guide and heads. Junk it, start over. Charlie Nudo wouldn't know his
ass from a sewer pipe on this subject. I've got 40 years experience
in analog tape, most of it pro. You decide.

if the pros at the studios do it it works you have to do it as it goes by
the first tape guide and be gentile about it it gets one last play out of
the tape and its over with


"DeserTBoB" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 07 Aug 2005 16:42:47 GMT, "Andy" wrote:

you need some high end tape luberacant that the pros use to get that old
tape to play one last time you brush it on with a cotton swab and hope
for
the best as it plays snip

That'll just help the oxide shed even faster. It's trash...junk it.

dB

On Mon, 08 Aug 2005 05:50:21 GMT, "Andy" wrote:

if the pros at the studios do it it works you have to do it as it goes by
the first tape guide and be gentile snip

....as opposed to being Jewish about it? WTF??

about it it gets one last play out of
the tape and its over with snip

On various 3M formulations, you can usually get one play out of it,
sometimes more on the later dark oxides. On cheap Agfa/BASF, forget
it. Only Agfa/BASF that would respond to baking would be 463. The
rest, after baking, the binder's completely gone and the rust
particles just pile up on the leading guide. I can't think of a worse
tape for archival purposes, although some of the 3Ms were bad, as
well. I just had a project involving retrieving a master off of
Scotch 150, and the tape had been stored, unsealed, in downtown San
Diego, right near the beach. A light toasting was all it needed,
though, and I was able to get a good playback the first try, although
my machine was littered with oxide. Many later 3M tapes were a lot
worse, notably 202 and 223. I've heard that 250 is also bad if
exposed to atmospheric moisture for any period of time. I've still
got two reels of 202 I don't know what I'm going to do with; the tape
has literally glued itself to itself, making a huge, black pancake!
Baking didn't help, and I'm afraid if I start unreeling it, the
oxide's going to peel right off.

Watch out for earlier "Rat Shack" tape make by BASF, also...same
thing, same result. "Rat Shack" also had their carts made by BASF,
and they're notoriously crappy, even if they're not shedding oxide.

dB