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#1
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Noodlers Ink and Parker 61 Capillary filler.
Just got my first couple of bottles of Noodlers ink this morning (Thanks
Sam!). The Black Waterproof works wonderfully, ran a page under the tap and nothing happened to the ink. Now, I'm sat here with a Parker 61 capillary filler which I normally fill with Quink, and a bottle of legal lapis, wondering if I dare... I understand that the ink is supposed to be non staining, made of mostly tap water, etc, but I'm not sure how much sediment the ink will throw, and if it does, will it rinse out of the filler with tap water? I keep my pens reasonably clean - as Frank used to say these are pens, not surgical instruments - and my 61 either gets used daily, or is flushed and dried and stored. So. Is it safe? |
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#2
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On 2004-09-27 14:49:14 -0700, Stompy said:
Just got my first couple of bottles of Noodlers ink this morning (Thanks Sam!). The Black Waterproof works wonderfully, ran a page under the tap and nothing happened to the ink. Now, I'm sat here with a Parker 61 capillary filler which I normally fill with Quink, and a bottle of legal lapis, wondering if I dare... I understand that the ink is supposed to be non staining, made of mostly tap water, etc, but I'm not sure how much sediment the ink will throw, and if it does, will it rinse out of the filler with tap water? I keep my pens reasonably clean - as Frank used to say these are pens, not surgical instruments - and my 61 either gets used daily, or is flushed and dried and stored. So. Is it safe? There was a report a day or two ago of someone who had let Noodler's ink dry inside a pen on purpose to test for this sort of thing. He said the dried ink rinsed away clean with no problems. Nathan himself says he has tested his ink on all sorts of materials that pens might be made of, also with no damage or problems. If you normally keep your pens reasonably clean anyway, it sounds as though your chances are very good. :-) David |
#3
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Stompy wrote:
snip I understand that the ink is supposed to be non staining, made of mostly tap water, etc, but I'm not sure how much sediment the ink will throw, and if it does, will it rinse out of the filler with tap water? I keep my pens reasonably clean - as Frank used to say these are pens, not surgical instruments - and my 61 either gets used daily, or is flushed and dried and stored. So. Is it safe? I'm not sure what you mean by "...how much sediment the ink will throw." Since you're familiar with Frank, you might also remember how many times he mentioned FP inks don't have pigments, i.e., solids, but contain dyes. If you have an ink with "sediment" don't use it in any FP, Parker 61 or otherwise. Also, Nathan has stated Noodler's was formulated to emulate Parker Quink and Sheaffer Skrip of the 1950s, a period when these inks were especially FP-friendly. Given this is roughly the same era as your Parker 61, there should be no problem. HTH, Mark Z. |
#4
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On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 14:13:05 +0100, mz wrote
(in article ): I'm not sure what you mean by "...how much sediment the ink will throw." Since you're familiar with Frank, you might also remember how many times he mentioned FP inks don't have pigments, i.e., solids, but contain dyes. If you have an ink with "sediment" don't use it in any FP, Parker 61 or otherwise. An excellent point and well made. What I meant was what sort of residue would the ink leave behind if it evaporated a little in the pen. Also, Nathan has stated Noodler's was formulated to emulate Parker Quink and Sheaffer Skrip of the 1950s, a period when these inks were especially FP-friendly. Given this is roughly the same era as your Parker 61, there should be no problem. HTH, Mark Z. I bit the bullet and filled my Parker 61 with Legal Lapis, and after a couple of written pages I'm glad I did. I nice turquoise shaded blue back which flows wonderfully. Thanks. |
#5
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On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 23:13:09 +0100, Stompy wrote
(in article ): I bit the bullet and filled my Parker 61 with Legal Lapis, and after a couple of written pages I'm glad I did. I nice turquoise shaded blue back which flows wonderfully. The Legal Lapis seems to be the first ink that lets me use a highlighter pen over without leeching. |
#6
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I understand that the ink is supposed to be non staining, made of mostly tap water I wish. The water is not cheap. It's distilled..and then some...etc...etc...it is as pure as water can be... Thus a big reason my cost for ink is the highest, and profit most likely the lowest (competitors have not showed me their books! ;-) For rinsing out my 61's - I actually put the filler end in a surgical tube (the stretch latex kind) and put the other end over the faucet - then run the water through the pen at low pressure for a few minutes - until the water runs clear. You can also do this holding the filler end with your hand sealing enough to push the flow through - but you'll waste more water that way...and might spray it clear out of the sink and make a mess. |
#7
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I understand that the ink is supposed to be non staining, made of mostly tap water, etc, I wish. The water is not cheap. It's distilled..and then some...etc...etc...it is as pure as water can be... Thus a big reason my cost for ink is the highest, and profit most likely the lowest (competitors have not showed me their books! ;-) For rinsing out my 61's - I actually put the filler end in a surgical tube (the stretch latex kind) and put the other end over the faucet - then run the water through the pen at low pressure for a few minutes - until the water runs clear. You can also do this holding the filler end with your hand sealing enough to push the flow through - but you'll waste more water that way...and might spray it clear out of the sink and make a mess. |
#8
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I wish. The water is not cheap. It's distilled..and then
some...etc...etc...it is as pure as water can be... Thus a big reason my cost for ink is the highest, and profit most likely the lowest (competitors of course have not showed me their books! ;-) For rinsing out my 61's - I actually put the filler end in a surgical tube (the stretch latex kind) and put the other end over the faucet - then run the water through the pen at low pressure for a few minutes - until the water runs clear. You can also do this holding the filler end with your hand sealing enough to push the flow through - but you'll waste more water that way...and might spray it clear out of the sink and make a mess. If you do this before long term storage and before switching inks - the pen should be fine for a long time. The main ink I fear concerning mixing is a Ukrainian ink that is highly acidic and has other unsavory chemicals - it also smells slightly of rotten eggs. Avoid that and also avoid the Chinese ink that smells like turpentine paint. Both have salts and high acid content. I have no other way of identifying them - as my samples arrived in medical bottles and not original labeled bottles. Mixing - don't bother mixing the bottles... When using vintage inks with Frank, he noted how any dust and debris that is attracted to the feed and nib as one writes would get washed off and in a good ink, would settle to the bottom of the bottle...leaving the top layer of ink clean (I always said "Why not rinse before filling"...but of course most people rinse on the 3rd or 4th filling). Notably in many vintage inks that were high dye content inks, it was also found some concentrated dye would coat the base of a bottle's glass more than the sides and top (enough so that when dried up you could see through the sides of the bottle, but not see through the base). Just fill from the top - don't mix... The very bottom of the bottle is the same as the bottom of a wine barrel. The brim vrs. the dregs. |
#9
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Proper citation...
I understand that the ink is supposed to be non staining, made of mostly tap water, etc, I wish. The water is not cheap. It's distilled..and then some...etc...etc...it is as pure as water can be... Thus a big reason my cost for ink is the highest, and profit most likely the lowest (competitors of course have not showed me their books! ;-) For rinsing out my 61's - I actually put the filler end in a surgical tube (the stretch latex kind) and put the other end over the faucet - then run the water through the pen at low pressure for a few minutes - until the water runs clear. You can also do this holding the filler end with your hand sealing enough to push the flow through - but you'll waste more water that way...and might spray it clear out of the sink and make a mess. If you do this before long term storage and before switching inks - the pen should be fine for a long time. The main ink I fear concerning mixing is a Ukrainian ink that is highly acidic and has other unsavory chemicals - it also smells slightly of rotten eggs. Avoid that and also avoid the Chinese ink that smells like turpentine paint. Both have salts and high acid content. I have no other way of identifying them - as my samples arrived in medical bottles and not original labeled bottles. Mixing - don't bother mixing the bottles... When using vintage inks with Frank, he noted how any dust and debris that is attracted to the feed and nib as one writes would get washed off and in a good ink, would settle to the bottom of the bottle...leaving the top layer of ink clean (I always said "Why not rinse before filling"...but of course most people rinse on the 3rd or 4th filling). Notably in many vintage inks that were high dye content inks, it was also found some concentrated dye would coat the base of a bottle's glass more than the sides and top (enough so that when dried up you could see through the sides of the bottle, but not see through the base). Just fill from the top - don't mix... The bottom of the bottle is the same as the bottom of a wine barrel. The brim vrs. the dregs. |
#10
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that the ink is supposed to be non staining,
You can try this for yourself - soak plastic in the ink....for months. It rinses off with tap water afterwards. Also...spray it on plastic sheets...leave in the sun...let dry...leave it for months. It rinses off with a spray of water. I've even rinsed it through polyester fibers such as those used to clean fish tanks or fill stuffed animals. Clear plastic barreled eyedropper pens are good for testing the ink as well...the ink will fall off the sides clear and clean each time the pen chamber is shifted. Paper? Cellulose like cotton? No chance in hell...it will laugh at water and most chemicals (in fact I have not yet found a chemical that removes the ink from cellulose paper - although industrial bleach turns the paper back into pulp mush...your written word remains in the same form within the mush sheet!). If this is a concern for recycling...not that a quick stir of a glass rod mixes the mushed paper pulp into uniform gray matter very similar to that seen at recycling plants. I see no reason for concern about that issue. |
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