removing feed

I want to remove the nib and feed section from a Waterman Tapewrite.

The part is illustrated at:

http://www.vintagewatermanpens.co.uk...at=-1&id=w4983

I can see that the join to the body is a friction fit, and not
threaded.

What is the safest way of separating the illustrated part from the
body of the pen?

"Richard Wright" wrote in message
...
I want to remove the nib and feed section from a Waterman Tapewrite.

The part is illustrated at:

http://www.vintagewatermanpens.co.uk...at=-1&id=w4983

I can see that the join to the body is a friction fit, and not
threaded.

What is the safest way of separating the illustrated part from the
body of the pen?

Hair dryer mounted on workbench works for me. (Mounting it allows both
hands to twirl pen & gently try to work nib unit free.)

Failing that, "I not -I" does have a point. If proves stubborn, I'd
definately checkout FPN or Pentrace. Lion & Pen is also another html board,
but I think they're more into academic or historical aspects of pen
collecting.

--Bruce

"bowcan" wrote in message
...
"Richard Wright" wrote in message
...
I want to remove the nib and feed section from a Waterman Tapewrite.

The part is illustrated at:

http://www.vintagewatermanpens.co.uk...at=-1&id=w4983

I can see that the join to the body is a friction fit, and not
threaded.

What is the safest way of separating the illustrated part from the
body of the pen?

Hair dryer mounted on workbench works for me. (Mounting it allows both
hands to twirl pen & gently try to work nib unit free.)

Failing that, "I not -I" does have a point. If proves stubborn, I'd
definately checkout FPN or Pentrace. Lion & Pen is also another html
board, but I think they're more into academic or historical aspects of pen
collecting.

However, you both failed to suggest that the OP also search a.c.p-p for
previous posts on this subject.

--
~~Bluesea~~
Spam is great in musubi, but not in email.
Please take out the trash before sending a direct reply.

"Bluesea" wrote in message
...

"bowcan" wrote in message
...
"Richard Wright" wrote in message
...
I want to remove the nib and feed section from a Waterman Tapewrite.

The part is illustrated at:

http://www.vintagewatermanpens.co.uk...at=-1&id=w4983

I can see that the join to the body is a friction fit, and not
threaded.

What is the safest way of separating the illustrated part from the
body of the pen?

Hair dryer mounted on workbench works for me. (Mounting it allows
both hands to twirl pen & gently try to work nib unit free.)

Failing that, "I not -I" does have a point. If proves stubborn, I'd
definately checkout FPN or Pentrace. Lion & Pen is also another html
board, but I think they're more into academic or historical aspects
of pen collecting.

However, you both failed to suggest that the OP also search a.c.p-p
for previous posts on this subject.


I found these two threads with a GG search for "removing feed".

Removing feed from Yard-o-Led fpen:

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/alt... 6a07d46d54a6b

Stubborn feed section (longer thread with more pointers):

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/alt... 7ed64f600ec8b

Both work fine if you paste them into the address bar[1]. Point and
click is mysteriously broken in this news reader; maybe yours will work
better.

[1] in IE6, anyway.
--
Alan

On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 13:48:38 +1100, Richard Wright
wrote:

I want to remove the nib and feed section from a Waterman Tapewrite.

The part is illustrated at:

http://www.vintagewatermanpens.co.uk...at=-1&id=w4983

I can see that the join to the body is a friction fit, and not
threaded.

What is the safest way of separating the illustrated part from the
body of the pen?


Thanks for the suggestions, all.

I see that I left a second sentence out from my original post. Sorry.

I do want to remove the nib and feed section, but first I want to know
how to separate the illustrated part from the body of the pen, i.e.
end up with the unit that is in the illustration.

After that I'll turn my attention to the feed!

My son suggested WD40 first, but my fear is that WD40 might damage the
plastic.

Richard Wright wrote:

I do want to remove the nib and feed section, but first I want
to know how to separate the illustrated part from the body of
the pen, i.e. end up with the unit that is in the illustration.

I can't answer your question, but I have found some information
that indicates that separating the section from the barrel may not
be easy, and may be risky.

Remarks by Frank Dubiel, from this group:

| But the big problem is most (not all) Taperite sections are
| glued in from the factory, which added to their shape makes them
| very hard to seperate for a sac job. The plastic is also
| brittle (though nothing like a MB) and when used on later 1950s
| standard section pens its not unusual to occasionally find a
| mint never inked Waterman with a serious crack/split in the
| section itself.

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.collecting.pens-pencils/msg/8415c8913e5ac0de?hl=en&dmode=source&output=gplain

or

http://tinyurl.com/c3mu9q

And by Giovanni Abrate and Frank Dubiel, again from this group:

|| [...] It is very easy to break the barrel during section
|| separation. You need to use a chemical sticky-tape remover (the
|| orange stuff is OK) and inject it into the barrel from the
|| lever slit. Let sit overnight and then try to separate the
|| barrel from the section. [...]
|| Good luck! tricky affair!
|
| Tricky yes and while I've tried varied chemicals such as the
| above on Taperites they don't seem to help at all on a number of
| them and then usual answer of heat, and sometimes lots of it
| would be the only way to go. It appears several different
| cements were used by Waterman and some will losen with chemicals
| while others will not. I use just flame although I can hear
| the oh nos from the wimps out there. A good heat gun
| properly directed to the joint may work about as good, but it
| need quite a bit of heat. As much to soften the plastic to make
| it less brittle as to weaken the cement. Again I'd say 95% or
| better will come out with no damage. I'd be a bit more afraid
| of some chemicals left in the pen for 24 hours, although if one
| is careful what is used and makes sure its only inside the risks
| are lessened. For what its worth I've given up on the
| chemicals on these pens and when the section appears glued I get
| out my flame thrower and flame away.

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.collecting.pens-pencils/browse_thread/thread/52c4da04c045d07f/c3270e6a482c5cf4?hl=en#c3270e6a482c5cf4

or

http://tinyurl.com/cd824v

In his book on pen repair, Frank wrote:

| Many Waterman pens of the late 1940s and 50s have their plastic
| sections firmly cemented into their plastic barrels with a
| solvent based cement that is exceedingly difficult to separate.
| Take your time.
|
(Frank Dubiel, "Fountain Pens: The Complete Guide to Repair &
Restoration", Revised Edition (2002), p. 27.)

From an article by Richard Binder on Pentrace:

| If it's a slip-fitter, it'll come loose unless it's been
| shellacked in place, or possibly even glued (as on Waterman's
| Taperite from the 1940s). In that case, you're better off
| leaving it to a professional.

http://www.pentrace.net/penbase/Data_Returns/full_article.asp?id=50

From Richard Binder's website:

| Also, although it is doubtful that [Waterman] actually intended
| the Taperite to be unrepairable, it is true that many of these
| pens are so tightly assembled that they are virtually impossible
| to disassemble for sac replacement. Knocking the nib and feed
| out of the gripping section is very risky; if the section has
| shrunk, as celluloid parts can do, it will split rather than
| release the internal parts.

http://richardspens.com/?page=ref_info/taperite_profile.htm

Here's one person's experience, but without much detail:

| When I overhauled my Taperite it took a considerable amount of
| time to loosen the section from the barrel. It seems Waterman
| put a bit of a pattern in the fitting end of the section, and it
| creates an amazing amount of friction. I used the rocker
| technique to wiggle it out over a few tries.

http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=42613

Another person's experience (see post by Farace, Nov 13 2007,
10:01 PM):

| Then, after about two weeks of trying and not being able to
| remove a stuck section in a Waterman Taperite, I used more
| aggressive heat on it, from a heat gun. I thought I was being
| fairly gentle, and was trying not to apply so much heat that I
| couldn't hold it, but at one point I saw that the barrel had
| gotten soft. Uh-oh. I don't think it caused any permanent
| damage, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's not quite straight.
| (And still the section was stuck. I finally got it out a few
| days later.)

http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t44522.html

See also the post by Oxonian (Apr 4 2008, 08:01 AM) he

http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=58839&start=0&p=567035&#entry5 67035

or

http://tinyurl.com/c7ar4a

--
Steve

My e-mail address works as is.

Steve

I am most grateful to you for assembling this advice.

Trouble is, it makes the job sound like brain surgery.

But I guess one must tell it as it is!

Thanks.


On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 23:10:27 +0000 (UTC), Stephen Hust
wrote:

Richard Wright wrote:

I do want to remove the nib and feed section, but first I want
to know how to separate the illustrated part from the body of
the pen, i.e. end up with the unit that is in the illustration.

I can't answer your question, but I have found some information
that indicates that separating the section from the barrel may not
be easy, and may be risky.

Remarks by Frank Dubiel, from this group:

| But the big problem is most (not all) Taperite sections are
| glued in from the factory, which added to their shape makes them
| very hard to seperate for a sac job. The plastic is also
| brittle (though nothing like a MB) and when used on later 1950s
| standard section pens its not unusual to occasionally find a
| mint never inked Waterman with a serious crack/split in the
| section itself.

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.collecting.pens-pencils/msg/8415c8913e5ac0de?hl=en&dmode=source&output=gplain

or

http://tinyurl.com/c3mu9q

And by Giovanni Abrate and Frank Dubiel, again from this group:

|| [...] It is very easy to break the barrel during section
|| separation. You need to use a chemical sticky-tape remover (the
|| orange stuff is OK) and inject it into the barrel from the
|| lever slit. Let sit overnight and then try to separate the
|| barrel from the section. [...]
|| Good luck! tricky affair!
|
| Tricky yes and while I've tried varied chemicals such as the
| above on Taperites they don't seem to help at all on a number of
| them and then usual answer of heat, and sometimes lots of it
| would be the only way to go. It appears several different
| cements were used by Waterman and some will losen with chemicals
| while others will not. I use just flame although I can hear
| the oh nos from the wimps out there. A good heat gun
| properly directed to the joint may work about as good, but it
| need quite a bit of heat. As much to soften the plastic to make
| it less brittle as to weaken the cement. Again I'd say 95% or
| better will come out with no damage. I'd be a bit more afraid
| of some chemicals left in the pen for 24 hours, although if one
| is careful what is used and makes sure its only inside the risks
| are lessened. For what its worth I've given up on the
| chemicals on these pens and when the section appears glued I get
| out my flame thrower and flame away.

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.collecting.pens-pencils/browse_thread/thread/52c4da04c045d07f/c3270e6a482c5cf4?hl=en#c3270e6a482c5cf4

or

http://tinyurl.com/cd824v

In his book on pen repair, Frank wrote:

| Many Waterman pens of the late 1940s and 50s have their plastic
| sections firmly cemented into their plastic barrels with a
| solvent based cement that is exceedingly difficult to separate.
| Take your time.
|
(Frank Dubiel, "Fountain Pens: The Complete Guide to Repair &
Restoration", Revised Edition (2002), p. 27.)

From an article by Richard Binder on Pentrace:

| If it's a slip-fitter, it'll come loose unless it's been
| shellacked in place, or possibly even glued (as on Waterman's
| Taperite from the 1940s). In that case, you're better off
| leaving it to a professional.

http://www.pentrace.net/penbase/Data_Returns/full_article.asp?id=50

From Richard Binder's website:

| Also, although it is doubtful that [Waterman] actually intended
| the Taperite to be unrepairable, it is true that many of these
| pens are so tightly assembled that they are virtually impossible
| to disassemble for sac replacement. Knocking the nib and feed
| out of the gripping section is very risky; if the section has
| shrunk, as celluloid parts can do, it will split rather than
| release the internal parts.

http://richardspens.com/?page=ref_info/taperite_profile.htm

Here's one person's experience, but without much detail:

| When I overhauled my Taperite it took a considerable amount of
| time to loosen the section from the barrel. It seems Waterman
| put a bit of a pattern in the fitting end of the section, and it
| creates an amazing amount of friction. I used the rocker
| technique to wiggle it out over a few tries.

http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=42613

Another person's experience (see post by Farace, Nov 13 2007,
10:01 PM):

| Then, after about two weeks of trying and not being able to
| remove a stuck section in a Waterman Taperite, I used more
| aggressive heat on it, from a heat gun. I thought I was being
| fairly gentle, and was trying not to apply so much heat that I
| couldn't hold it, but at one point I saw that the barrel had
| gotten soft. Uh-oh. I don't think it caused any permanent
| damage, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's not quite straight.
| (And still the section was stuck. I finally got it out a few
| days later.)

http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t44522.html

See also the post by Oxonian (Apr 4 2008, 08:01 AM) he

http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=58839&start=0&p=567035&#entry5 67035

or

http://tinyurl.com/c7ar4a

"Bluesea" wrote in message
...

snip for brevity

What is the safest way of separating the illustrated part from the
body of the pen?

Hair dryer mounted on workbench works for me. (Mounting it allows both
hands to twirl pen & gently try to work nib unit free.)

Failing that, "I not -I" does have a point. If proves stubborn, I'd
definately checkout FPN or Pentrace. Lion & Pen is also another html
board, but I think they're more into academic or historical aspects of
pen collecting.

However, you both failed to suggest that the OP also search a.c.p-p for
previous posts on this subject.

--
~~Bluesea~~
Spam is great in musubi, but not in email.
Please take out the trash before sending a direct reply.

Missed this one from yesterday, and yes-- totally fo got that of course
a-c.p-p would have its own archives.

Thanks for the heads up!

Enjoy your week

--Bruce