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Red Seal $2



 
 
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  #1  
Old August 15th 03, 06:54 AM
Christine11276
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Default Red Seal $2

Can anyone tell me how much it might be worth? The date is 1953. Thanks
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  #2  
Old August 15th 03, 08:46 PM
Coin Saver
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From: latta (Lonnie)

Lonnie; What was your information source? According to both "Standard Guide To
Small-Size U. S. Paper Money 1928 to Date", by Oakes / Schwartz as well as
"Standard Catalogue Of United States Paper Money" by Krause / Lemke, your
entire response is filled with innaccuracies.

The original question was:
Christine11276 wrote: Can anyone tell me how much a Red Seal $2 might be

worth? The date is 1953.

Your answer - rudely submitted in all Caps, a definite NewsGroup 'no-no',
(portioned for clarity):
UNITED STATES NOTES HAVE RED TREASURY SEAL AND SERIAL NUMBERS. THE FACE DESIGN

IS VERY SIMILAR TO THE DESIGN ON THE SERIES 1995 $2 FEDERAL NOTE.
The face design is decidedly different beyond the signatures, date, red numbers
and seal. First, there are no 'field' District Numbers, and where the District
seal is on the 1995's hers should have simply a "2", with the 'Legal Tender'
statement imopsed upon it, rather than above it, and includes the words "At
It's Face Value"; both the face plate position number and the plate check
number are in different locations as well; and the earlier Note has the "Bearer
on Demand" line absent from the later versions.

AN EASY WAY TO IDENTIFY THE NOTE IS AT THE TOP YOU SHOULD SEE THE WORD UNITED

STATES NOTE.
Wouldn't an easier indication be the red ink??? Or have them peek at the
back???

THE SIGNER NAME ON THE NOTE SHOULD BE HUMPHREY AND PRIEST.

Well, you got them backward, for one - it would be Priest / Humphrey. Also bear
in mind that the poster has no knowledge of these Notes, and it's very likely
they omit the Series Identifying Letter. If there is an Alpabetic Series
indicator beneath the date, the signatures would be different. If it's 1953 -
A, it will be Priest / Anderson; if 1953 - B then Smith / Dillon; if 1953 - C
then Granahan / Dillon.

YOU WOULD NEED TO KNOW THE CONDITION OF THE NOTE EXAMPLE CU-CRISP

UNCIRCULATED: AU-ABOUT UNCIRCULATED: XF-EXTREMELY FINE: VF- VERY FINE.
This explains nothing to someone who does not know much about collectible
Paper-Money. And, what of F, VG, G & P? Don't you recognize those Grades?

THE PRICE COULD BE BETWEEN $3.50 TO $45.00.

Could be, also, that this range is so broad that it does nothing to give the
poster any real feeling for it's value.

REMEMEBER I , HAVE NOT SEEN THE NOTE.

Duly noted.

IF YOU WISH TO SELL IT KEEP ME IN MINE.

Or, "in mind", perhaps.

THANK YOU LONNIE

You're welcomed.

8-/
Coin Saver
  #3  
Old August 15th 03, 09:05 PM
Coin Saver
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From: Jim
Okokok ... friendly nit-picks here, Jim.

NO ONE is going to pay $45.00 for any condition 1953 deuce.

Since the original poster admits to not knowing anything about these Notes, we
must first assume that this person did not *know* to check for the varying
Series along the channel of the "1953's" and / or Star Notes ... That being
said, there is a very slight, highly unlikely, yet existing odds-against chance
that the poster might have a 1953-A Star Note in CU, which puts it over the top
quote. I will state here that the chances of this particular Note being the one
discussed is not very likely; there were just 720,000 of these printed out of
the nearly 84 million Notes printed within the Series 1953 through Series
1953C. Also, note here that this particular Note's increased price may also be
due the fact that fewer of these were 'saved' in CU condition that other
similar Notes (two examples: the 1953-B Star Note has the same printing amount
but the CU goes for around $25; the 1953-C Star Note has only a printing of
half that - 360,000 - yet the CU price is only slightly higher: maybe $28).

"If" your note had a star or asterisk at the end of the serial number ...

[snip]
Ummm ... on the 1953 deuce replacement Notes, the star came first, not last ...


No star and at best, $25.00 and that's a lucky day

I agree. I know what I've said, above; but finding a $2 Series 1953-any Star
Note would definitely qualify as a 'lucky day', eh?

8-/
Coin Saver
  #4  
Old August 15th 03, 09:16 PM
Coin Saver
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From: christine
Can anyone tell me how much a Red Seal $2 might be worth? The date is 1953


If you read this whole thread, you've seen my replied to others. But this
one's just for helping you (trying to keep it simple). First, please reply by
listing the entire Serial Number, any letters or marks with it. It should end
with an "A" and start with either an "A" or a "*" -star- (asterisk).

Then look underneath the year. Is there a letter there? If so, it'll be either
an "A", a "B", or a "C". If none, that's important too.

Finally, answer this set of questions about it's condition as best possible: Is
the Note 'worn' or wrinkled? Are there any folds? Is the picture of Jefferson
sharp and completely clear? Are the corners sharp? Are there any tears, and
how long? Has anyone in the past placed scotch tape on it? Is there any
discoloration? Is there any writing on it? Can you smell anything on it
(perfume, mold, etc.)?

I will be honest with you - your Note is "most probably" worth maybe $4 or $5
or so unless it is in a rather nice condition. But still that beats 'face
value'.

8-/
Coin Saver
  #6  
Old August 16th 03, 02:49 AM
Coin Saver
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Default

From: Jim

Monster odds as you point out and if so, what? $50.00?

About that. I'd say that was a fair guess. To you and I, it's not much, when
you compare the possible CU Notes we could be seeking out. But to a novice
and/or a non-collector, that could be "Shock And Awe".

a serial number has TWO ends.

Your statement was "if there is a star after the serial number". Yes, two
ends. And you identified the wrong one. (heh)

If you walked up to 25 people on the street and asked them to find the star on

a star note you've handed them, I dare say few would find it.
One of my points: someone who's found a particular Note does not always 'know'
what we would be looking for, but they sometimes 'guess'.

I'm not 'talking down' to anyone; rather I'm trying to describe things in a
manner that they can use to provide the information correctly. Too many times
some short-patient collector will post a reply and be curt with someone who's
just trying to get some correct information - they're not *all* trolls.

This is the functional purpose of this NG, IIRC. I am here mainly for the
connections with the experienced collector / dealers, such as yourself. But I
will not ignore an honest question which has gone unanswered or answered
incorrectly. And, as a footnote, may I remind that I preceeded my reply to you
that, yes, to experienced folx, my reply was a tad 'nit-picky'.

But since you challenge that, I therefore might ask: how did you come by your
current experience, knowledge? Did you start out by asking questions of or by
getting guidance from, someone else - who was, perhaps, more experienced?
That's how I got started. And, too, perhaps these two Notes, found by someone
who's in the dark as to details and is asking questions, will someday be one of
the foremost authorities ... on his/her first steps toward becoming a
Paper-Money collector, I will try to give the best and most complete
information I have avaliable.

These are *my* motives ...

8-?
Coin Saver
  #7  
Old August 16th 03, 04:17 AM
Jim
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ojunk (Coin Saver) adds....

But to a novice and/or a non-collector, that could be "Shock And Awe".


Hey. $50 bux is $50 bux in any language. I was challenging the $45.00 response
of the other guy. I don't start my BBQ with greenbacks, believe me.

Your statement was "if there is a star after the serial number". Yes, two

ends. And you identified the wrong one. (heh)

This is why you won't ever secure that position with the Daily Planet Tim. My
statement was......."If" your note had a star or asterisk at the end of the
serial number.... I didn't use the word after. Nah, nah, nah, nah, nah........!

I'm not 'talking down' to anyone; rather I'm trying to describe things in a

manner that they can use to provide the information correctly.

snip balance

I had no probs with how you answered the OP or anything else. I simply
mentioned that nowadays, I respond a "little" at first, then if "they" show
enough interest to reply, I know they want to know more, that's all.

I'm tired of giving the 984 word reply to "I have an sc, what's it worth?" only
to NEVER hear from that poster again. No Thank You, no nothing, cuz they don't
care. They want to know if they've just hit a mini-Lotto, that's all. And
that's fine too, but my dime's limited.

And yes Tim, this group and it's cousin over there ---------------- have been
a great help to me and my understanding of the hobby. That's not my point
either, but since you brought it up.......

These are *my* motives ...


Good. Just work on that fact thing, OK?

Always here for my fellow syngraphist or oenophile.
--=*=----=*=----=*=----=*=----=*=----=*=----=*=----=*=----=*=----=*=--
 




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