shoebox of - .10, .25, .50, 1.00

I have a shoebox in the bottom of our dresser that I think was from our
parents house.
It has a couple of baggies of dimes, quarters, 1/2 dollars, and maybe some
silver dollars.

How should I go thru the coins to determine what is what ?
ie - not being a coin collector......
which of the vintages would be worth bringing to a dealer vs just normal
coinage ?

--
/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
No Good Deed -
Goes Unpunished

Silver coins (1964 and earlier) are worth 23.5 X face value, just for the silver in them. Silver dollars a little more. Best bet is to find someone who knows about coins rather than trying to take a crash course in numismatics. Yes, certain dates/mintmarks are worth more. I suggest getting a copy of the 'Red Book' to get a basic idea, but when going to sell, get 2 or 3 offers before taking anyone up on it.

"Jud" wrote in message
...
Silver coins (1964 and earlier) are worth 23.5 X face value, just for the
silver in them. Silver dollars a little more. Best bet is to find someone
who knows about coins rather than trying to take a crash course in
numismatics. Yes, certain dates/mintmarks are worth more. I suggest getting
a copy of the 'Red Book' to get a basic idea, but when going to sell, get 2
or 3 offers before taking anyone up on it.
---
tnx for the reply -
So.... I'm guessing the basic steps in sorting the bags fulls of coins would
be by year...or maybe a "break date".
Not sure if the 1964 date is true for all 4 coins ?

Is 1964 a break date between when the metal or "type" was worth more vs
current coinage ?

Are there different styles or design changes or metal content - by date for
each ?
For all I know at this point, they could be all from the 1950's or the
1970's

"ps56k" wrote in message ...


"Jud" wrote in message
...
Silver coins (1964 and earlier) are worth 23.5 X face value, just for the
silver in them. Silver dollars a little more. Best bet is to find someone
who knows about coins rather than trying to take a crash course in
numismatics. Yes, certain dates/mintmarks are worth more. I suggest getting
a copy of the 'Red Book' to get a basic idea, but when going to sell, get 2
or 3 offers before taking anyone up on it.
---
tnx for the reply -
So.... I'm guessing the basic steps in sorting the bags fulls of coins would
be by year...or maybe a "break date".
Not sure if the 1964 date is true for all 4 coins ?

Is 1964 a break date between when the metal or "type" was worth more vs
current coinage ?

Are there different styles or design changes or metal content - by date for
each ?
For all I know at this point, they could be all from the 1950's or the
1970's
----------------------

Year-wise, U.S. dimes, quarters, and half dollars dated 1964 and earlier are
of 90% silver content. Also, be aware that normal Eisenhower dollar coins
saved from circulation and the more recent small dollar coins are not
"silver". As for certain dates and mint marks that might command a premium,
if those baggies contain circulated 1950's and later coins the odds are
against finding any that would justify buying a "Redbook" price guide. But
then you might just get the coin bug while examining them.

"ps56k" wrote in
:



Is 1964 a break date between when the metal or "type" was worth more
vs current coinage ?

Are there different styles or design changes or metal content - by
date for each ?
For all I know at this point, they could be all from the 1950's or the
1970's


Everything 10 cents or higher was 90% silver through '64. Halves were 40%
after that through '69. There were exceptions, but it's unlikely you'll
find any of those in that shoebox.

Folks took to throwing silver coins into a jar (or shoebox) starting in '64
when the gov't announced that they were no longer doing silver in coins.
That's likely what this is, rather than somebody's collection...

-ab

On Thursday, December 13, 2012 6:51:47 PM UTC-6, Alan Bruns wrote:
"ps56k" wrote in : Is 1964 a break date between when the metal or "type" was worth more vs current coinage ? Are there different styles or design changes or metal content - by date for each ? For all I know at this point, they could be all from the 1950's or the 1970's Everything 10 cents or higher was 90% silver through '64. Halves were 40% after that through '69. There were exceptions, but it's unlikely you'll find any of those in that shoebox. Folks took to throwing silver coins into a jar (or shoebox) starting in '64 when the gov't announced that they were no longer doing silver in coins. That's likely what this is, rather than somebody's collection.... -ab

That last bit assumes one hell of a lot. Could easily be an accumulation in the 1970s or 1980s or 1990s or even later that doesn't have any silver.

My good old Granny used to get some kind of small oddball check once a month and when she cashed it, she'd get a half dollar from the bank. She saved that, and when she went to the nursing home, she had a bunch of clad half dollars.

We are something like 45 years+ from the point when it was possible to get much (if any) silver in daily pocket change. If an estate with a casual accumulation of coins isn't left by an 85 year-old, or something like that, it isn't going to have much (if any) silver.

oly

On Thursday, December 13, 2012 6:49:59 PM UTC-6, bremick wrote:
"ps56k" wrote in message ... "Jud" wrote in message ... Silver coins (1964 and earlier) are worth 23.5 X face value, just for the silver in them. Silver dollars a little more. Best bet is to find someone who knows about coins rather than trying to take a crash course in numismatics. Yes, certain dates/mintmarks are worth more. I suggest getting a copy of the 'Red Book' to get a basic idea, but when going to sell, get 2 or 3 offers before taking anyone up on it. --- tnx for the reply - So.... I'm guessing the basic steps in sorting the bags fulls of coins would be by year...or maybe a "break date". Not sure if the 1964 date is true for all 4 coins ? Is 1964 a break date between when the metal or "type" was worth more vs current coinage ? Are there different styles or design changes or metal content - by date for each ? For all I know at this point, they could be all from the 1950's or the 1970's ---------------------- Year-wise, U.S. dimes, quarters, and half dollars dated 1964 and earlier are of 90% silver content. Also, be aware that normal Eisenhower dollar coins saved from circulation and the more recent small dollar coins are not "silver". As for certain dates and mint marks that might command a premium, if those baggies contain circulated 1950's and later coins the odds are against finding any that would justify buying a "Redbook" price guide. But then you might just get the coin bug while examining them.

I don't want to disagree with Mr. R in a major way, but I gotta say that not paying for a Red Book is the proverbial penny-wise and pound-foolish. The most you gotta pay is $14.95 plus sales tax (for a spiral bound edition, perhaps the old hard cover edition may be cheaper) and it isn't difficult to get one cheaper when booksellers offer discounts via membership cards or coupons.

Buy a Red Book for "peace of mind", it will reassure you that you didn't let a valuable coin go for one-tenth or one-one hundreth (or maybe worse) of its numismatic value.

I have spent a whole lot of money on numismatic books and they have never cost me a single red cent. Sometimes they help me make good decisions when selling coins, sometimes they help me make better decisions when buying coins and most often they help me with the "negative decision" to avoid a coin that is likely overpriced or not as scarce as my (now) defective memory makes me think.

The cumulative profit and loss avoidance affect of all these decisions is rather greater than the price of the books themselves. And I am not in this for commercial reasons; I want to collect coins, lots of them, and not get taken by the sharpies.

oly

On Dec 13, 7:49*pm, "bremick" wrote:
"ps56k" *wrote in ...
"Jud" wrote in message

...
Silver coins (1964 and earlier) are worth 23.5 X face value, just for the
silver in them. Silver dollars a little more. Best bet is to find someone
who knows about coins rather than trying to take a crash course in
numismatics. Yes, certain dates/mintmarks are worth more. I suggest getting
a copy of the 'Red Book' to get a basic idea, but when going to sell, get 2
or 3 offers before taking anyone up on it.
---
tnx for the reply -
So.... I'm guessing the basic steps in sorting the bags fulls of coins would
be by year...or maybe a "break date".
Not sure if the 1964 date is true for all 4 coins ?

Is 1964 a break date between when the metal or "type" was worth more vs
current coinage ?

Are there different styles or design changes or metal content - by date for
each ?
For all I know at this point, they could be all from the 1950's or the
1970's
----------------------

Year-wise, U.S. dimes, quarters, and half dollars dated 1964 and earlier are
of 90% silver content. *Also, be aware that normal Eisenhower dollar coins
saved from circulation and the more recent small dollar coins are not
"silver". *As for certain dates and mint marks that might command a premium,
if those baggies contain circulated 1950's and later coins the odds are
against finding any that would justify buying a "Redbook" price guide. *But
then you might just get the coin bug while examining them.

I would suggest, rather than buying a Red Book, visit your local
library instead. Even an older Red (or Blue) Book would give you an
idea of what might be worth a premium vs. a common date coin. Take
the prices listed in either as a guide, not an actual price. Say you
find a 1955 Franklin half. The prices across the board are higher
than most of the others, so that coin would be worth more than a 1954-
D, a common date coin, just not what the book says.

There is a huge caution, though, as Bremick said. The Numismatic Bug
bites, and it bites hard. Most of us here are living proof (coin
reference!).

Jerry

"oly" wrote in message
...

On Thursday, December 13, 2012 6:49:59 PM UTC-6, bremick wrote:
"ps56k" wrote in message ... "Jud"
wrote in message
... Silver coins
(1964 and earlier) are worth 23.5 X face value, just for the silver in
them. Silver dollars a little more. Best bet is to find someone who knows
about coins rather than trying to take a crash course in numismatics. Yes,
certain dates/mintmarks are worth more. I suggest getting a copy of the
'Red Book' to get a basic idea, but when going to sell, get 2 or 3 offers
before taking anyone up on it. --- tnx for the reply - So.... I'm guessing
the basic steps in sorting the bags fulls of coins would be by year...or
maybe a "break date". Not sure if the 1964 date is true for all 4 coins ?
Is 1964 a break date between when the metal or "type" was worth more vs
current coinage ? Are there different styles or design changes or metal
content - by date for each ? For all I know at this point, they could be
all from the 1950's or the 1970's ---------------------- Year-wise, U.S.
dimes, quarters, and half dollars dated 1964 and earlier are of 90% silver
content. Also, be aware that normal Eisenhower dollar coins saved from
circulation and the more recent small dollar coins are not "silver". As
for certain dates and mint marks that might command a premium, if those
baggies contain circulated 1950's and later coins the odds are against
finding any that would justify buying a "Redbook" price guide. But then
you might just get the coin bug while examining them.

I don't want to disagree with Mr. R in a major way, but I gotta say that not
paying for a Red Book is the proverbial penny-wise and pound-foolish. The
most you gotta pay is $14.95 plus sales tax (for a spiral bound edition,
perhaps the old hard cover edition may be cheaper) and it isn't difficult to
get one cheaper when booksellers offer discounts via membership cards or
coupons.

Buy a Red Book for "peace of mind", it will reassure you that you didn't let
a valuable coin go for one-tenth or one-one hundreth (or maybe worse) of its
numismatic value.

I have spent a whole lot of money on numismatic books and they have never
cost me a single red cent. Sometimes they help me make good decisions when
selling coins, sometimes they help me make better decisions when buying
coins and most often they help me with the "negative decision" to avoid a
coin that is likely overpriced or not as scarce as my (now) defective memory
makes me think.

The cumulative profit and loss avoidance affect of all these decisions is
rather greater than the price of the books themselves. And I am not in this
for commercial reasons; I want to collect coins, lots of them, and not get
taken by the sharpies.

oly
---------------------

Most would agree with you, Oly, but in this case all this poster seems to
care about is putting a rough value on a few baggies of found coins that
most likely were saved from the past 50 years or so. In that case, he
might be misled (knowing nothing about grading) by the prices he will see in
the book. He may be better off with a Blue Book. If does find a few older
coins in the baggies, a search on eBay might serve him better than a Red
Book, assuming he will have no interest in coins as a hobby once he cashes
in his find.

On Thursday, December 13, 2012 10:17:13 PM UTC-6, bremick wrote:
"oly" wrote in message ... On Thursday, December 13, 2012 6:49:59 PM UTC-6, bremick wrote: "ps56k" wrote in message ... "Jud" wrote in message ... Silver coins (1964 and earlier) are worth 23.5 X face value, just for the silver in them. Silver dollars a little more. Best bet is to find someone who knows about coins rather than trying to take a crash course in numismatics. Yes, certain dates/mintmarks are worth more. I suggest getting a copy of the 'Red Book' to get a basic idea, but when going to sell, get 2 or 3 offers before taking anyone up on it. --- tnx for the reply - So.... I'm guessing the basic steps in sorting the bags fulls of coins would be by year...or maybe a "break date". Not sure if the 1964 date is true for all 4 coins ? Is 1964 a break date between when the metal or "type" was worth more vs current coinage ? Are there different styles or design changes or metal content - by date for each ? For all I know at this point, they could be all from the 1950's or the 1970's ---------------------- Year-wise, U.S. dimes, quarters, and half dollars dated 1964 and earlier are of 90% silver content. Also, be aware that normal Eisenhower dollar coins saved from circulation and the more recent small dollar coins are not "silver". As for certain dates and mint marks that might command a premium, if those baggies contain circulated 1950's and later coins the odds are against finding any that would justify buying a "Redbook" price guide. But then you might just get the coin bug while examining them. I don't want to disagree with Mr. R in a major way, but I gotta say that not paying for a Red Book is the proverbial penny-wise and pound-foolish. The most you gotta pay is $14.95 plus sales tax (for a spiral bound edition, perhaps the old hard cover edition may be cheaper) and it isn't difficult to get one cheaper when booksellers offer discounts via membership cards or coupons. Buy a Red Book for "peace of mind", it will reassure you that you didn't let a valuable coin go for one-tenth or one-one hundreth (or maybe worse) of its numismatic value. I have spent a whole lot of money on numismatic books and they have never cost me a single red cent. Sometimes they help me make good decisions when selling coins, sometimes they help me make better decisions when buying coins and most often they help me with the "negative decision" to avoid a coin that is likely overpriced or not as scarce as my (now) defective memory makes me think. The cumulative profit and loss avoidance affect of all these decisions is rather greater than the price of the books themselves. And I am not in this for commercial reasons; I want to collect coins, lots of them, and not get taken by the sharpies. oly --------------------- Most would agree with you, Oly, but in this case all this poster seems to care about is putting a rough value on a few baggies of found coins that most likely were saved from the past 50 years or so. In that case, he might be misled (knowing nothing about grading) by the prices he will see in the book. He may be better off with a Blue Book. If does find a few older coins in the baggies, a search on eBay might serve him better than a Red Book, assuming he will have no interest in coins as a hobby once he cashes in his find.

Mr. Remick, a single common, late date Franklin half dollar goes for $12 to $20 (maybe more if its really nice) nowadays; get a Red Book!!! It's cheap!!!

The Red Book (admitedly a retail, not wholesale price guide) is a neophyte's best defense against the many "dealers" who would offer you three times face value for your silver coins. The number of undercapitalized bums in the gold and silver business, living hand-to-mouth, has never ever ever been greater than today.

If you can find a coin book in a Public Library (and I think that that will be much much more difficult than older timers realize), well the broken-out cost of the gasoline for two round trips to the Library (pickup and return) would be most of the cost of the Red Book.

Finally, I defy you to go out in your community or to the nearest big retail center and to find a Blue Book. You won't find it on the first day you go looking.

One could get a copy of the monthly "slick" magazine edition of Coin World - their price listings are O.K. (but mostly lack photographs) but even there you spend $6.

Best Christmas wishes to you, Mr. R-

oly