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#11
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rowe-ami Ti-1 need HELP
On Jul 13, 5:13 am, kreed wrote:
On Jul 13, 1:25 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 12, 4:10 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 12, 10:48 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 5, 5:02 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 2, 3:54 pm, kreed wrote: On Jul 1, 9:17 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jun 30, 8:23 am, kreed wrote: On Jun 28, 12:52 am, Brutusx wrote: I have a Ti-1 Rowe-Ami jukebox and i continue to blow the MDL-6 1/4 fuse ,can not make it through one complete cycle without blowing the fuse. Any thoughts? have actually had this exact problem, it turned out to be a magazine motor that probably had shorted turns. (i just replaced it rather than repair it as I had plenty of spares on hand at the time). Most of the time it wouldnt make a full cycle before blowing a fuse. The only sign of distress was the F***** awful smell coming from it if you got close enough, also it got hot. Note also that it ran at normal speed right up to the time of the fuse blowing, it didnt slow down or buzzzzz or anything. try putting the switch in "scan" or "rotate" position (cant remember exactly how it was labelled) and keep rotating the magazine. if this causes the fuse to fail, or the motor is getting hot, then this is your problem. Fortunately the motor isnt too hard to rewind. Other culprits the other poster has listed. The same testing process should be applied to these, run them continuously without any of the other running, and when the fuse blows, you know where the culprit is. While you are at it, thoroughly check all the wires if you have been working on the machine before this fault started, of if you purchased it with this fault without knowing if the last owner(s) had been fiddling with it - as I also had a nasty incident where the cam switch assembly was removed and replaced by a friend, and a wire was partially pinched under one of the mounting plate screws. It must have only shorted a couple of strands, or it must have been a long way from the supply to where it was - and thin wire maybe ? as it would actually work for a short time before blowing the fuse. This was a very frustrating and time consuming fault finding exercise, as it also caused some weird intermittent faults in the circuit that it was found in. Thank you for your help! I can get it to scan with no problem and also pick a record ,set it down and replace without blowin the fuse. I found that when i leave the left plug to the circuit board i do not blow a fuse but as soon as i plug it in the fuse will blow in seconds.All of the connections appear to be solid as they go to S2 relay. Does that mean the motor is bad? and if so can u even still get the part? Thank you very much for your time and support ! which circuit board - search unit ? if it blows when you connect it there is something wrong in there. While it may be the motor, it could be a short circuit anywhere in the 28v lines in the search unit. It could also be the latch bar solenoid, as I think (from memory) that the search unit needs to be connected for this to work. To test this, make sure the credits are zero so as the latch solenoid isnt operational (it holds in whenever there is credit in the machine). Unplugging the connector from the credit unit is probably the best way to ensure there isnt credit. Another way to test this is to hold down the relay in the button bank that switches the latch bar coil. (determine which one by tracing wire colours from relay contacts to latch coil) I dont think that the search unit needs to be connected for this test, so leave it disconnected when doing this. If the fuse blows, then you know its not the search motor. if the coil never energises, then you will have to further investigate why. The search motor should only ever get power when a letter and a number button are held in (and there is sufficient credit). -------------- Actually you are luckier than some. I was just mentioning this problem of yours to a collegue, who reminded me of a RI - 1 (A US imported one and the only one that i had ever seen here) that I reconditioned the mech for him about 18 years back, that had never worked properly for some unknown reason, and found out that the main reason was that some fool in the past had tried to work on it using a candle for illumination, and managed to drip candle wax all through the search unit, other parts and on the front of the machine, where it permanently discoloured the metal extrusions that form the front of the machine. It also played havoc with relay and search wiper contacts where it fell too. That was a real **** of a job to clean it all out, but we did it, and the machine worked perfectly for some years after until it was sold and dropped out of our sight . Other than not holding the full 100 records, these and RI-2 were a good little machine for the tight spots, looked good, and had great sound (for their size) to boot.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for all the info! Well i think i have it narrowed down to the solenoid @ the latch coil? But would that also cause the fuse to blow when the 3rd plug is plugged into the board? Do you know where i can locate a solenoid? having trouble finding one ! Thanks again i would still be scratchin my head if it wasnt for your insight I doubt you would find a solenoid anywhere these days, as there werent as many of these machines produced as the 200 selection units (had a different solenoid as they had a different keyboard). You probably have to go to a transformer or motor rewinding specialist and have it re-wound. First though, I would remove the connectors from the solenoid, (insulate so they dont touch the chassis) and try and see if the fuse still blows, if it does I would check other parts of the circuit for any shorts to chassis or gnd. (relay contacts may have foreign matter on them or might be touching against something for example. Not likely but possible. which is the 3rd plug you refer to ? search unit ? The search unit has to be connected to the machine for the latch solenoid to operate. Try disconnecting the wire from the solenoid and see if the fuse still blows with solenoid out of circuit. The search unit only operates the latch solenoid through the latch relay in the button bank, it is switched by the 24vdc system to the search unit, (and via the cabinet harness to the credit unit.) The only reason that 28vac comes to the search unit is for the search motor, but it does go through several switches on the way to it. Part of this circuit is via the buttons, 28vac will be supplied when ANY letter AND ANY number button are held in together. If needed, check for any shorts or foreign matter around the button bank wiring too. Its confusing to explain, a manual with a wiring diagram might be a good idea for you to get.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well I tried to unplug the solenoid and when i do it does not blow the fuse.So that should narrow it down to the solenoid...right? Its the solenoid then. Your juke can operate without the latch coil if you hold both selector keys in when making selections. But if you want to replace it , I have 2 TI-1 parts machines. Side note to Kreed: The TI-1 IS a 200 selection juke. |
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#12
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rowe-ami Ti-1 need HELP
On Jul 16, 7:43 am, Oldtimejuker wrote:
On Jul 13, 5:13 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 13, 1:25 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 12, 4:10 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 12, 10:48 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 5, 5:02 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 2, 3:54 pm, kreed wrote: On Jul 1, 9:17 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jun 30, 8:23 am, kreed wrote: On Jun 28, 12:52 am, Brutusx wrote: I have a Ti-1 Rowe-Ami jukebox and i continue to blow the MDL-6 1/4 fuse ,can not make it through one complete cycle without blowing the fuse. Any thoughts? have actually had this exact problem, it turned out to be a magazine motor that probably had shorted turns. (i just replaced it rather than repair it as I had plenty of spares on hand at the time). Most of the time it wouldnt make a full cycle before blowing a fuse. The only sign of distress was the F***** awful smell coming from it if you got close enough, also it got hot. Note also that it ran at normal speed right up to the time of the fuse blowing, it didnt slow down or buzzzzz or anything. try putting the switch in "scan" or "rotate" position (cant remember exactly how it was labelled) and keep rotating the magazine. if this causes the fuse to fail, or the motor is getting hot, then this is your problem. Fortunately the motor isnt too hard to rewind. Other culprits the other poster has listed. The same testing process should be applied to these, run them continuously without any of the other running, and when the fuse blows, you know where the culprit is. While you are at it, thoroughly check all the wires if you have been working on the machine before this fault started, of if you purchased it with this fault without knowing if the last owner(s) had been fiddling with it - as I also had a nasty incident where the cam switch assembly was removed and replaced by a friend, and a wire was partially pinched under one of the mounting plate screws. It must have only shorted a couple of strands, or it must have been a long way from the supply to where it was - and thin wire maybe ? as it would actually work for a short time before blowing the fuse. This was a very frustrating and time consuming fault finding exercise, as it also caused some weird intermittent faults in the circuit that it was found in. Thank you for your help! I can get it to scan with no problem and also pick a record ,set it down and replace without blowin the fuse. I found that when i leave the left plug to the circuit board i do not blow a fuse but as soon as i plug it in the fuse will blow in seconds.All of the connections appear to be solid as they go to S2 relay. Does that mean the motor is bad? and if so can u even still get the part? Thank you very much for your time and support ! which circuit board - search unit ? if it blows when you connect it there is something wrong in there. While it may be the motor, it could be a short circuit anywhere in the 28v lines in the search unit. It could also be the latch bar solenoid, as I think (from memory) that the search unit needs to be connected for this to work. To test this, make sure the credits are zero so as the latch solenoid isnt operational (it holds in whenever there is credit in the machine). Unplugging the connector from the credit unit is probably the best way to ensure there isnt credit. Another way to test this is to hold down the relay in the button bank that switches the latch bar coil. (determine which one by tracing wire colours from relay contacts to latch coil) I dont think that the search unit needs to be connected for this test, so leave it disconnected when doing this. If the fuse blows, then you know its not the search motor. if the coil never energises, then you will have to further investigate why. The search motor should only ever get power when a letter and a number button are held in (and there is sufficient credit). -------------- Actually you are luckier than some. I was just mentioning this problem of yours to a collegue, who reminded me of a RI - 1 (A US imported one and the only one that i had ever seen here) that I reconditioned the mech for him about 18 years back, that had never worked properly for some unknown reason, and found out that the main reason was that some fool in the past had tried to work on it using a candle for illumination, and managed to drip candle wax all through the search unit, other parts and on the front of the machine, where it permanently discoloured the metal extrusions that form the front of the machine. It also played havoc with relay and search wiper contacts where it fell too. That was a real **** of a job to clean it all out, but we did it, and the machine worked perfectly for some years after until it was sold and dropped out of our sight . Other than not holding the full 100 records, these and RI-2 were a good little machine for the tight spots, looked good, and had great sound (for their size) to boot.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for all the info! Well i think i have it narrowed down to the solenoid @ the latch coil? But would that also cause the fuse to blow when the 3rd plug is plugged into the board? Do you know where i can locate a solenoid? having trouble finding one ! Thanks again i would still be scratchin my head if it wasnt for your insight I doubt you would find a solenoid anywhere these days, as there werent as many of these machines produced as the 200 selection units (had a different solenoid as they had a different keyboard). You probably have to go to a transformer or motor rewinding specialist and have it re-wound. First though, I would remove the connectors from the solenoid, (insulate so they dont touch the chassis) and try and see if the fuse still blows, if it does I would check other parts of the circuit for any shorts to chassis or gnd. (relay contacts may have foreign matter on them or might be touching against something for example. Not likely but possible. which is the 3rd plug you refer to ? search unit ? The search unit has to be connected to the machine for the latch solenoid to operate. Try disconnecting the wire from the solenoid and see if the fuse still blows with solenoid out of circuit. The search unit only operates the latch solenoid through the latch relay in the button bank, it is switched by the 24vdc system to the search unit, (and via the cabinet harness to the credit unit.) The only reason that 28vac comes to the search unit is for the search motor, but it does go through several switches on the way to it. Part of this circuit is via the buttons, 28vac will be supplied when ANY letter AND ANY number button are held in together. If needed, check for any shorts or foreign matter around the button bank wiring too. Its confusing to explain, a manual with a wiring diagram might be a good idea for you to get.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well I tried to unplug the solenoid and when i do it does not blow the fuse.So that should narrow it down to the solenoid...right? Its the solenoid then. Your juke can operate without the latch coil if you hold both selector keys in when making selections. But if you want to replace it , I have 2 TI-1 parts machines. Side note to Kreed: The TI-1 IS a 200 selection juke. oh ****e so sorry I was thinking of the RI-1 (100 sel) TI-1 IS indeed a 200 selection machine. |
#13
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rowe-ami Ti-1 need HELP
On Jul 16, 6:49*am, kreed wrote:
On Jul 16, 7:43 am, Oldtimejuker wrote: On Jul 13, 5:13 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 13, 1:25 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 12, 4:10 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 12, 10:48 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 5, 5:02 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 2, 3:54 pm, kreed wrote: On Jul 1, 9:17 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jun 30, 8:23 am, kreed wrote: On Jun 28, 12:52 am, Brutusx wrote: I have a Ti-1 Rowe-Ami jukebox and i continue to blow the MDL-6 1/4 fuse ,can not make it through one complete cycle without blowing the fuse. Any thoughts? have actually had this exact problem, it turned out to be a magazine motor that probably had shorted turns. (i just replaced it rather than repair it as I had plenty of spares on hand at the time). Most of the time it wouldnt make a full cycle before blowing a fuse.. *The only sign of distress was the F***** awful smell coming from it if you got close enough, also it got hot. *Note also that it ran at normal speed right up to the time of the fuse blowing, it didnt slow down or buzzzzz or anything. try putting the switch in "scan" or "rotate" position (cant remember exactly how it was labelled) and keep rotating the magazine. *if this causes the fuse to fail, or the motor is getting hot, then this is your problem. Fortunately the motor isnt too hard to rewind. * Other culprits the other poster has listed. *The same testing process should be applied to these, run them continuously without any of the other running, and when the fuse blows, you know where the culprit is. While you are at it, thoroughly check all the wires if you have been working on the machine before this fault started, of if you purchased it with this fault without knowing if the last owner(s) had been fiddling with it - as I also had a nasty incident where the cam switch assembly was removed and replaced by a friend, and a wire was partially pinched under one of the mounting plate screws. *It must have only shorted a couple of strands, or it must have been a long way from the supply to where it was - and thin wire maybe ? *as it would actually work for a short time before blowing the fuse. This was a very frustrating and time consuming fault finding exercise, as it also caused some weird intermittent faults in the circuit that it was found in. Thank you for your help! I can get it to scan with no problem and also pick a record ,set it down and replace without blowin the fuse. I found that when i leave the left plug to the circuit board i do not blow a fuse but as soon as i plug it in the fuse will blow in seconds.All of the connections appear to be solid as they go to S2 relay. Does that mean the motor is bad? and if so can u even still get the part? Thank you very much for your time and support ! which circuit board - search unit ? * if it blows when you connect it there is something wrong in there. While it may be the motor, it could be a short circuit anywhere in the 28v lines in the search unit. It could also be the latch bar solenoid, as I think (from memory) that the search unit needs to be connected for this to work. To test this, make sure the credits are zero so as the latch solenoid isnt operational (it holds in whenever there is credit in the machine). Unplugging the connector from the credit unit is probably the best way to ensure there isnt credit. Another way to test this is to hold down the relay in the button bank that switches the latch bar coil. (determine which one by tracing wire colours from relay contacts to latch coil) *I dont think that the search unit needs to be connected for this test, so leave it disconnected when doing this. If the fuse blows, then you know its not the search motor. if the coil never energises, then you will have to further investigate why. The search motor should only ever get power when a letter and a number button are held in (and there is sufficient credit). -------------- Actually you are luckier than some. I was just mentioning this problem of yours to a collegue, who reminded me of a RI - 1 (A US imported one and the only one that i had ever seen here) that I reconditioned the mech for him about 18 years back, that had never worked properly for some unknown reason, and found out that the main reason was that some fool in the past had tried to work on it using a candle for illumination, and managed to drip candle wax all through the search unit, other parts and on the front of the machine, where it permanently discoloured the metal extrusions that form the front of the machine. It also played havoc with relay and search wiper contacts where it fell too. That was a real **** of a job to clean it all out, but we did it, and the machine worked perfectly for some years after until it was sold and dropped out of our sight . Other than not holding the full 100 records, these and RI-2 were a good little machine for the tight spots, looked good, and had great sound (for their size) to boot.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for all the info! Well i think i have it narrowed down to the solenoid @ the latch coil? But would that also cause the fuse to blow when the 3rd plug is plugged into the board? Do you know where i can locate a solenoid? having trouble finding one ! * *Thanks again i would still be scratchin my head if it wasnt for your insight I doubt you would find a solenoid anywhere these days, as there werent as many of these machines produced as the 200 selection units (had a different solenoid as they had a different keyboard). *You probably have to go to a transformer or motor rewinding specialist and have it re-wound. First though, I would remove the connectors from the solenoid, (insulate so they dont touch the chassis) and try and see if the fuse still blows, *if it does I would check other parts of the circuit for any shorts to chassis or gnd. (relay contacts may have foreign matter on them or might be touching against something for example. *Not likely but possible. which is the 3rd plug you refer to ? *search unit ? *The search unit has to be connected to the machine for the latch solenoid to operate. Try disconnecting the wire from the solenoid and see if the fuse still blows with solenoid out of circuit. The search unit only operates the latch solenoid through the latch relay in the button bank, it is switched by the 24vdc system to the search unit, (and via the cabinet harness to the credit unit.) The only reason that 28vac comes to the search unit is for the search motor, but it does go through several switches on the way to it. Part of this circuit is via the buttons, 28vac will be supplied when ANY letter AND ANY number button are held in together. *If needed, check for any shorts or foreign matter around the button bank wiring too. Its confusing to explain, a manual with a wiring diagram might be a good idea for you to get.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well I tried to unplug the solenoid and when i do it does not blow the fuse.So that should narrow it down to the solenoid...right? Its the solenoid then. Your juke can operate without the latch coil if you hold both selector keys in when making selections. But if you want to replace it , I have 2 TI-1 parts machines. * *Side note to Kreed: *The TI-1 *IS a 200 selection juke. oh ****e so sorry I was thinking of the RI-1 (100 sel) *TI-1 IS indeed a 200 selection machine.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well I put everything back and tried it like oldtimejuker said and son of a gun ii worked!!! But when it plays it sounds like it is gettin drowned out ....is there an adjustment for the speed? |
#14
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rowe-ami Ti-1 need HELP
On Jul 17, 1:01 pm, Brutusx wrote:
On Jul 16, 6:49 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 16, 7:43 am, Oldtimejuker wrote: On Jul 13, 5:13 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 13, 1:25 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 12, 4:10 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 12, 10:48 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 5, 5:02 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 2, 3:54 pm, kreed wrote: On Jul 1, 9:17 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jun 30, 8:23 am, kreed wrote: On Jun 28, 12:52 am, Brutusx wrote: I have a Ti-1 Rowe-Ami jukebox and i continue to blow the MDL-6 1/4 fuse ,can not make it through one complete cycle without blowing the fuse. Any thoughts? have actually had this exact problem, it turned out to be a magazine motor that probably had shorted turns. (i just replaced it rather than repair it as I had plenty of spares on hand at the time). Most of the time it wouldnt make a full cycle before blowing a fuse. The only sign of distress was the F***** awful smell coming from it if you got close enough, also it got hot. Note also that it ran at normal speed right up to the time of the fuse blowing, it didnt slow down or buzzzzz or anything. try putting the switch in "scan" or "rotate" position (cant remember exactly how it was labelled) and keep rotating the magazine. if this causes the fuse to fail, or the motor is getting hot, then this is your problem. Fortunately the motor isnt too hard to rewind. Other culprits the other poster has listed. The same testing process should be applied to these, run them continuously without any of the other running, and when the fuse blows, you know where the culprit is. While you are at it, thoroughly check all the wires if you have been working on the machine before this fault started, of if you purchased it with this fault without knowing if the last owner(s) had been fiddling with it - as I also had a nasty incident where the cam switch assembly was removed and replaced by a friend, and a wire was partially pinched under one of the mounting plate screws. It must have only shorted a couple of strands, or it must have been a long way from the supply to where it was - and thin wire maybe ? as it would actually work for a short time before blowing the fuse. This was a very frustrating and time consuming fault finding exercise, as it also caused some weird intermittent faults in the circuit that it was found in. Thank you for your help! I can get it to scan with no problem and also pick a record ,set it down and replace without blowin the fuse. I found that when i leave the left plug to the circuit board i do not blow a fuse but as soon as i plug it in the fuse will blow in seconds.All of the connections appear to be solid as they go to S2 relay. Does that mean the motor is bad? and if so can u even still get the part? Thank you very much for your time and support ! which circuit board - search unit ? if it blows when you connect it there is something wrong in there. While it may be the motor, it could be a short circuit anywhere in the 28v lines in the search unit. It could also be the latch bar solenoid, as I think (from memory) that the search unit needs to be connected for this to work. To test this, make sure the credits are zero so as the latch solenoid isnt operational (it holds in whenever there is credit in the machine). Unplugging the connector from the credit unit is probably the best way to ensure there isnt credit. Another way to test this is to hold down the relay in the button bank that switches the latch bar coil. (determine which one by tracing wire colours from relay contacts to latch coil) I dont think that the search unit needs to be connected for this test, so leave it disconnected when doing this. If the fuse blows, then you know its not the search motor. if the coil never energises, then you will have to further investigate why. The search motor should only ever get power when a letter and a number button are held in (and there is sufficient credit). -------------- Actually you are luckier than some. I was just mentioning this problem of yours to a collegue, who reminded me of a RI - 1 (A US imported one and the only one that i had ever seen here) that I reconditioned the mech for him about 18 years back, that had never worked properly for some unknown reason, and found out that the main reason was that some fool in the past had tried to work on it using a candle for illumination, and managed to drip candle wax all through the search unit, other parts and on the front of the machine, where it permanently discoloured the metal extrusions that form the front of the machine. It also played havoc with relay and search wiper contacts where it fell too. That was a real **** of a job to clean it all out, but we did it, and the machine worked perfectly for some years after until it was sold and dropped out of our sight . Other than not holding the full 100 records, these and RI-2 were a good little machine for the tight spots, looked good, and had great sound (for their size) to boot.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for all the info! Well i think i have it narrowed down to the solenoid @ the latch coil? But would that also cause the fuse to blow when the 3rd plug is plugged into the board? Do you know where i can locate a solenoid? having trouble finding one ! Thanks again i would still be scratchin my head if it wasnt for your insight I doubt you would find a solenoid anywhere these days, as there werent as many of these machines produced as the 200 selection units (had a different solenoid as they had a different keyboard). You probably have to go to a transformer or motor rewinding specialist and have it re-wound. First though, I would remove the connectors from the solenoid, (insulate so they dont touch the chassis) and try and see if the fuse still blows, if it does I would check other parts of the circuit for any shorts to chassis or gnd. (relay contacts may have foreign matter on them or might be touching against something for example. Not likely but possible. which is the 3rd plug you refer to ? search unit ? The search unit has to be connected to the machine for the latch solenoid to operate. Try disconnecting the wire from the solenoid and see if the fuse still blows with solenoid out of circuit. The search unit only operates the latch solenoid through the latch relay in the button bank, it is switched by the 24vdc system to the search unit, (and via the cabinet harness to the credit unit.) The only reason that 28vac comes to the search unit is for the search motor, but it does go through several switches on the way to it. Part of this circuit is via the buttons, 28vac will be supplied when ANY letter AND ANY number button are held in together. If needed, check for any shorts or foreign matter around the button bank wiring too. Its confusing to explain, a manual with a wiring diagram might be a good idea for you to get.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well I tried to unplug the solenoid and when i do it does not blow the fuse.So that should narrow it down to the solenoid...right? Its the solenoid then. Your juke can operate without the latch coil if you hold both selector keys in when making selections. But if you want to replace it , I have 2 TI-1 parts machines. Side note to Kreed: The TI-1 IS a 200 selection juke. oh ****e so sorry I was thinking of the RI-1 (100 sel) TI-1 IS indeed a 200 selection machine.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well I put everything back and tried it like oldtimejuker said and son of a gun ii worked!!! But when it plays it sounds like it is gettin drowned out ....is there an adjustment for the speed? Too slow ? That's normal, on these machines. There is no adjustment for speed on these machines. First, make sure that nothing is catching on the turntable as it rotates (the mechanism shroud - if its even fitted still , and also that the record isnt slipping on the TT as it rotates. (try putting something heavy on the label - such as a couple of 50c coins to hold it down firmly and see if it helps). Removing the turntable and lubricating down the shaft with a couple of drops of oil, or silicone lubricant spray can help. Make sure there isnt any dirt or crud down there. Also oil the hub bearing of idler wheel - and linkage shafts where they rotate. DO NOT get oil on the rubber wheel. Check tension of the idler wheel spring, and the rubber wheel itself - you may have to replace it if it hasn't got much traction any more. I don't know where you would get a new one, about 10 years back I made one by cutting 2 or 3 layers of rigid sheet rubber, and gluing them together around the existing shaft to make a new "tyre" for the wheel. (if anyone else has any ideas in making or sourcing idler wheels, Im open to suggestions) Other thing you can check is the turntable "thrust bearing" which is located under the mechanism about 3" down from the spindle area. Undo the 2 screws and remove the plate, the bearing and spacer should be able to be removed from the sleeve and checked. (they are white plastic). if they are stubborn, you can carefully push them out from above using a small screwdriver, or something that will fit down the hole. You can replace the bearing, (you could cut polycarbonate to the same dimensions) or turn it upside down to the other side, if no-one has tried this already in the past. Finally, if all else fails, you can build up the shaft of the turntable motor to increase the speed. Various methods, such as small springs of extremely thin wire, can be pushed over the shaft to increase its diameter. I have also seen heat shrink tubing, electrical tape, rubber from bicycle tyre valve etc used in the past, but they will wear away over time. On the Australian manufactured AMI, they used 2 pole BSR turntable motors with a brass shaft, (50HZ) that was thicker than the USA model's 4 pole black motor (60HZ), and you could sand them down, apply solder to the shaft to build it up, and carefully sand it back a little at a time until the desired speed was achieved. We would check the RPM it by counting 15 turns of the record in 20seconds using the second hand of a wris****ch. The US shaft isn't brass, and solder wont "take" to it |
#15
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rowe-ami Ti-1 need HELP
On Jul 17, 9:42*am, kreed wrote:
On Jul 17, 1:01 pm, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 16, 6:49 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 16, 7:43 am, Oldtimejuker wrote: On Jul 13, 5:13 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 13, 1:25 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 12, 4:10 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 12, 10:48 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 5, 5:02 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 2, 3:54 pm, kreed wrote: On Jul 1, 9:17 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jun 30, 8:23 am, kreed wrote: On Jun 28, 12:52 am, Brutusx wrote: I have a Ti-1 Rowe-Ami jukebox and i continue to blow the MDL-6 1/4 fuse ,can not make it through one complete cycle without blowing the fuse. Any thoughts? have actually had this exact problem, it turned out to be a magazine motor that probably had shorted turns. (i just replaced it rather than repair it as I had plenty of spares on hand at the time). Most of the time it wouldnt make a full cycle before blowing a fuse. *The only sign of distress was the F***** awful smell coming from it if you got close enough, also it got hot. *Note also that it ran at normal speed right up to the time of the fuse blowing, it didnt slow down or buzzzzz or anything. try putting the switch in "scan" or "rotate" position (cant remember exactly how it was labelled) and keep rotating the magazine. *if this causes the fuse to fail, or the motor is getting hot, then this is your problem. Fortunately the motor isnt too hard to rewind. * Other culprits the other poster has listed. *The same testing process should be applied to these, run them continuously without any of the other running, and when the fuse blows, you know where the culprit is. While you are at it, thoroughly check all the wires if you have been working on the machine before this fault started, of if you purchased it with this fault without knowing if the last owner(s) had been fiddling with it - as I also had a nasty incident where the cam switch assembly was removed and replaced by a friend, and a wire was partially pinched under one of the mounting plate screws. *It must have only shorted a couple of strands, or it must have been a long way from the supply to where it was - and thin wire maybe ? *as it would actually work for a short time before blowing the fuse. This was a very frustrating and time consuming fault finding exercise, as it also caused some weird intermittent faults in the circuit that it was found in. Thank you for your help! I can get it to scan with no problem and also pick a record ,set it down and replace without blowin the fuse. I found that when i leave the left plug to the circuit board i do not blow a fuse but as soon as i plug it in the fuse will blow in seconds.All of the connections appear to be solid as they go to S2 relay. Does that mean the motor is bad? and if so can u even still get the part? Thank you very much for your time and support ! which circuit board - search unit ? * if it blows when you connect it there is something wrong in there. While it may be the motor, it could be a short circuit anywhere in the 28v lines in the search unit. It could also be the latch bar solenoid, as I think (from memory) that the search unit needs to be connected for this to work. To test this, make sure the credits are zero so as the latch solenoid isnt operational (it holds in whenever there is credit in the machine). Unplugging the connector from the credit unit is probably the best way to ensure there isnt credit. Another way to test this is to hold down the relay in the button bank that switches the latch bar coil. (determine which one by tracing wire colours from relay contacts to latch coil) *I dont think that the search unit needs to be connected for this test, so leave it disconnected when doing this. If the fuse blows, then you know its not the search motor. if the coil never energises, then you will have to further investigate why. The search motor should only ever get power when a letter and a number button are held in (and there is sufficient credit). -------------- Actually you are luckier than some. I was just mentioning this problem of yours to a collegue, who reminded me of a RI - 1 (A US imported one and the only one that i had ever seen here) that I reconditioned the mech for him about 18 years back, that had never worked properly for some unknown reason, and found out that the main reason was that some fool in the past had tried to work on it using a candle for illumination, and managed to drip candle wax all through the search unit, other parts and on the front of the machine, where it permanently discoloured the metal extrusions that form the front of the machine. It also played havoc with relay and search wiper contacts where it fell too. That was a real **** of a job to clean it all out, but we did it, and the machine worked perfectly for some years after until it was sold and dropped out of our sight . Other than not holding the full 100 records, these and RI-2 were a good little machine for the tight spots, looked good, and had great sound (for their size) to boot.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for all the info! Well i think i have it narrowed down to the solenoid @ the latch coil? But would that also cause the fuse to blow when the 3rd plug is plugged into the board? Do you know where i can locate a solenoid? having trouble finding one ! * *Thanks again i would still be scratchin my head if it wasnt for your insight I doubt you would find a solenoid anywhere these days, as there werent as many of these machines produced as the 200 selection units (had a different solenoid as they had a different keyboard). *You probably have to go to a transformer or motor rewinding specialist and have it re-wound. First though, I would remove the connectors from the solenoid, (insulate so they dont touch the chassis) and try and see if the fuse still blows, *if it does I would check other parts of the circuit for any shorts to chassis or gnd. (relay contacts may have foreign matter on them or might be touching against something for example. *Not likely but possible. which is the 3rd plug you refer to ? *search unit ? *The search unit has to be connected to the machine for the latch solenoid to operate. Try disconnecting the wire from the solenoid and see if the fuse still blows with solenoid out of circuit. The search unit only operates the latch solenoid through the latch relay in the button bank, it is switched by the 24vdc system to the search unit, (and via the cabinet harness to the credit unit.) The only reason that 28vac comes to the search unit is for the search motor, but it does go through several switches on the way to it. Part of this circuit is via the buttons, 28vac will be supplied when ANY letter AND ANY number button are held in together. *If needed, check for any shorts or foreign matter around the button bank wiring too. Its confusing to explain, a manual with a wiring diagram might be a good idea for you to get.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well I tried to unplug the solenoid and when i do it does not blow the fuse.So that should narrow it down to the solenoid...right? Its the solenoid then. Your juke can operate without the latch coil if you hold both selector keys in when making selections. But if you want to replace it , I have 2 TI-1 parts machines. * *Side note to Kreed: *The TI-1 *IS a 200 selection juke. oh ****e so sorry I was thinking of the RI-1 (100 sel) *TI-1 IS indeed a 200 selection machine.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well I put everything back and tried it like oldtimejuker said and son of a gun ii worked!!! But when it plays it sounds like it is gettin drowned out ... read more »- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I want to thank you for all your help! I got it cleaned up and alittle oil and it sounds great! Thanks |
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rowe-ami Ti-1 need HELP
On Jul 30, 12:33 am, Brutusx wrote:
On Jul 17, 9:42 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 17, 1:01 pm, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 16, 6:49 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 16, 7:43 am, Oldtimejuker wrote: On Jul 13, 5:13 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 13, 1:25 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 12, 4:10 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 12, 10:48 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jul 5, 5:02 am, kreed wrote: On Jul 2, 3:54 pm, kreed wrote: On Jul 1, 9:17 am, Brutusx wrote: On Jun 30, 8:23 am, kreed wrote: On Jun 28, 12:52 am, Brutusx wrote: I have a Ti-1 Rowe-Ami jukebox and i continue to blow the MDL-6 1/4 fuse ,can not make it through one complete cycle without blowing the fuse. Any thoughts? have actually had this exact problem, it turned out to be a magazine motor that probably had shorted turns. (i just replaced it rather than repair it as I had plenty of spares on hand at the time). Most of the time it wouldnt make a full cycle before blowing a fuse. The only sign of distress was the F***** awful smell coming from it if you got close enough, also it got hot. Note also that it ran at normal speed right up to the time of the fuse blowing, it didnt slow down or buzzzzz or anything. try putting the switch in "scan" or "rotate" position (cant remember exactly how it was labelled) and keep rotating the magazine. if this causes the fuse to fail, or the motor is getting hot, then this is your problem. Fortunately the motor isnt too hard to rewind. Other culprits the other poster has listed. The same testing process should be applied to these, run them continuously without any of the other running, and when the fuse blows, you know where the culprit is. While you are at it, thoroughly check all the wires if you have been working on the machine before this fault started, of if you purchased it with this fault without knowing if the last owner(s) had been fiddling with it - as I also had a nasty incident where the cam switch assembly was removed and replaced by a friend, and a wire was partially pinched under one of the mounting plate screws. It must have only shorted a couple of strands, or it must have been a long way from the supply to where it was - and thin wire maybe ? as it would actually work for a short time before blowing the fuse. This was a very frustrating and time consuming fault finding exercise, as it also caused some weird intermittent faults in the circuit that it was found in. Thank you for your help! I can get it to scan with no problem and also pick a record ,set it down and replace without blowin the fuse. I found that when i leave the left plug to the circuit board i do not blow a fuse but as soon as i plug it in the fuse will blow in seconds.All of the connections appear to be solid as they go to S2 relay. Does that mean the motor is bad? and if so can u even still get the part? Thank you very much for your time and support ! which circuit board - search unit ? if it blows when you connect it there is something wrong in there. While it may be the motor, it could be a short circuit anywhere in the 28v lines in the search unit. It could also be the latch bar solenoid, as I think (from memory) that the search unit needs to be connected for this to work. To test this, make sure the credits are zero so as the latch solenoid isnt operational (it holds in whenever there is credit in the machine). Unplugging the connector from the credit unit is probably the best way to ensure there isnt credit. Another way to test this is to hold down the relay in the button bank that switches the latch bar coil. (determine which one by tracing wire colours from relay contacts to latch coil) I dont think that the search unit needs to be connected for this test, so leave it disconnected when doing this. If the fuse blows, then you know its not the search motor. if the coil never energises, then you will have to further investigate why. The search motor should only ever get power when a letter and a number button are held in (and there is sufficient credit). -------------- Actually you are luckier than some. I was just mentioning this problem of yours to a collegue, who reminded me of a RI - 1 (A US imported one and the only one that i had ever seen here) that I reconditioned the mech for him about 18 years back, that had never worked properly for some unknown reason, and found out that the main reason was that some fool in the past had tried to work on it using a candle for illumination, and managed to drip candle wax all through the search unit, other parts and on the front of the machine, where it permanently discoloured the metal extrusions that form the front of the machine. It also played havoc with relay and search wiper contacts where it fell too. That was a real **** of a job to clean it all out, but we did it, and the machine worked perfectly for some years after until it was sold and dropped out of our sight . Other than not holding the full 100 records, these and RI-2 were a good little machine for the tight spots, looked good, and had great sound (for their size) to boot.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for all the info! Well i think i have it narrowed down to the solenoid @ the latch coil? But would that also cause the fuse to blow when the 3rd plug is plugged into the board? Do you know where i can locate a solenoid? having trouble finding one ! Thanks again i would still be scratchin my head if it wasnt for your insight I doubt you would find a solenoid anywhere these days, as there werent as many of these machines produced as the 200 selection units (had a different solenoid as they had a different keyboard). You probably have to go to a transformer or motor rewinding specialist and have it re-wound. First though, I would remove the connectors from the solenoid, (insulate so they dont touch the chassis) and try and see if the fuse still blows, if it does I would check other parts of the circuit for any shorts to chassis or gnd. (relay contacts may have foreign matter on them or might be touching against something for example. Not likely but possible. which is the 3rd plug you refer to ? search unit ? The search unit has to be connected to the machine for the latch solenoid to operate. Try disconnecting the wire from the solenoid and see if the fuse still blows with solenoid out of circuit. The search unit only operates the latch solenoid through the latch relay in the button bank, it is switched by the 24vdc system to the search unit, (and via the cabinet harness to the credit unit.) The only reason that 28vac comes to the search unit is for the search motor, but it does go through several switches on the way to it. Part of this circuit is via the buttons, 28vac will be supplied when ANY letter AND ANY number button are held in together. If needed, check for any shorts or foreign matter around the button bank wiring too. Its confusing to explain, a manual with a wiring diagram might be a good idea for you to get.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well I tried to unplug the solenoid and when i do it does not blow the fuse.So that should narrow it down to the solenoid...right? Its the solenoid then. Your juke can operate without the latch coil if you hold both selector keys in when making selections. But if you want to replace it , I have 2 TI-1 parts machines. Side note to Kreed: The TI-1 IS a 200 selection juke. oh ****e so sorry I was thinking of the RI-1 (100 sel) TI-1 IS indeed a 200 selection machine.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Well I put everything back and tried it like oldtimejuker said and son of a gun ii worked!!! But when it plays it sounds like it is gettin drowned out ... read more »- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I want to thank you for all your help! I got it cleaned up and alittle oil and it sounds great! Thanks Im just really happy that its all going These are a nice AMI machine from that era. |
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