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#1
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Who's at fault for wasting my time tonight? I checked ROLLS of nickels tonight....
So, since I don't want to blame myself, I need to blame one of you
guys..... I am taking a few days off from work this week and got bored today...so, not having spare money, i decided to "exchange" some money on a "loan" basis.... I went to a bank in town (~30 miles outside of Seattle) and got: 12 rolls of nickels (thanks to Larry...or, curse him , I have the Harris&Co. Nickel holders (ummm...I forgot to get te PRE-1962 one though ). 12 Rolls of dimes 10 Rolls of pennies 20 rolls of quarters (I am only doing state quarters....why oh why did I get all those quarters????) and misc $0.50 and Sac $1 coins ( a few 1971 and 1991 and some 1976....nothing prior to 1971 for the kennedys). So far, I have only done the nickels......that took HOURS because I am not used to doing rolls (what are YOUR guys' methods to this madness?) I put done a small table, opened 1 roll at a time, and divided into the year and now will do year-by-year and put into the holder. I also had $4.20 in nickels from pocket change that was waiting for my nickel folder to arrive this week. Here are the highlights of my first nickel dive....very unscientific and very time-consuming....and, I culled the crap coins (really marred, really scratched, unreadable (all were 1964 or later like this though) right off the bat and didn't count them... First off...THERE WERE A BUTTLOAD of 1964 nickels made (yes...I finally looked at the redbook and saw there were more than a BILLION of the 1964 AND of the 1964D EACH. I got 1 canadian 1995 nickel (ALL were bankrolled...the bank doesn't screen for them in their own rolls, but when I use their sorting machines to cash in the coins, they screen them out? say what????) (1) 1939 - Somewhere between F-12 and VF-20 (I am new to nickels and using the photograde book I just received from Larry Calder) (1) 1953 - Probably a VG-8 due to wear on the rev and some scratches on the obv..otherwise, the obv would be ~F-12 (1) 1954D - another VG-8..maybe a little stronger, not much though (1) 1957 - probably F-12. Toning This was actual pocket change last week (1) 1958D - A little more than a F-12 but not quite all the VF-20 (3) 1960D - (1 cleaned, 1 G-8, 1 F-12) (1) 1961D - F-12+ but scratches that look like it was wiped. So, those all await something to hold them in...I need to get just the 1938-1961 holder now.... Then, I have found ALL the rest up through 2002 EXCEPT I found NO 1966 and 1967!!! What is up with that? (0) 1962 (1) 1962D - VF-12 (0) 1963 (2) 1963D (4) 1964 - all seem nice but worn VG-8 - lmost VF20 (18) 1964D - most around F-12 (2) 1965 - Higher than VF-20 but looks rubbed/cleaned (0) 1966 (0) 1967 (2) 1968S F-12+ (1) 1968D F-12+ (3) 1968S (2) 1969D (4) 1970S (3) 1970D (1) 1971 (4) 1971D (1) 1972 (4) 1972D - interesting FILTHY coin that is close to AU-50 (0) 1973 (6) 1973D (1) 1974 (3) 1974D (3) 1975 (2) 1975D (1) 1976 (6) 1976D (3) 1977 (4) 1977D (3) 1978 (3) 1978D (5) 1979 (7) 1979D - 2 appear almost PL but one has too many scratches for me (1) 1980 (9) 1980D - some are clear/open MM and some seem filled (5) 1981 (1) 1981D (4) 1982 (4) 1982D (4) 1983 (4) 1983D (1) 1984 (9) 1984D (4) 1985 (9) 1985D (2) 1986 (4) 1986D (3) 1987 - all 3 seem to have same wear on rims...weak? (12) 1987D - 1 is weirdly/radically toned (8) 1988 (11) 1988D (2) 1989 (15) 1989D (1) 1990 (8) 1990D (4) 1991 (14) 1991D (1) 1992 (10) 1992D (0) 1993 (9) 1993D (0) 1994 (14) 1994D (8) 1995 (18) 1995D That finishes THAT book.... 7 holes currently Most of the coins seem to be VF-20 thru VF-40 (the '70s are largely VF it looks like) with some in VG-8+ and some in AU-50 or so (I don't call coins I get in change or rolls from the bank that are mixed MS coins....just doesn't seem right to me even if they look it......anyone tell me differently? I will listen. So, for book two (jeez....this is taking FOREVER...lot of nickels....next will be pennies.....shades oh shades....that will be a lot of time I think)....my fingers and especially my thumbs are already killing me starting on ~1993 (3) 1996 (21) 1996D (1) 1997 - would be EF-40+ but it is covered in scratches (20) 1997D (4) 1998 (28) 1998D (0) 1999 (40) 1999D (3) 2000 (27) 2000D - Some of these are PL in appearance....imho.kinda cool (was there a change in composition or something?) (0) 2001 (22) 2001D (3) 2002 (37) 2003D - got a noticeable end roll toned coin...cool That gives me 2 current holes (4) if you include this year (I haven't seen 2003 yet....and since I live in Washington State, I probably won't see the P MM for awhile...since that MM constitutes my holes for all of them so far) Total time to unwrap nickels, put into year-piles, and then put into the books and sort them.... 5 hours+ !!!!! How do you guys do it? Now, do I keep some of the nickels or toss them back into the stream of finances? Ron |
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#2
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Steve wrote:
Ron, I have lots of "extra" nickels. If you want, check my list and see if I have anything you need. LMK what you find. As for not finding a '67(with a mintage of 107,324,750), for some reason they are terribly hard to find. Just ask Alan, he'll tell you. My system is simple. I sit down and go through one roll at a time. I keep everything before 1970 with the exception of 1964(unless in EF or better), all the S-mints, all the '71's, and all the pristine newer dates. I then roll up the others and take them back to the bank on my next trip. I second Steve's post. ;-) Those are exactly the parameters I search as well, pre-1970 (except 1964, although I have kept one or two for exceptionally high grade, interesting countermark or a diebreak or chip or something). I've found a total of 14 1967 Jefferson nickels from roll searches in the past 30 months or so. That's out of something like 20,000 coins searched, IIRC. I'd never attempt as massive a search as you have undertaken...all that change at once! Nickels do go pretty quickly, but the cents will absolutely slow you down. ;-) Alan 'lots of flipping' |
#3
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Ron,
I don't do pennies, nickels dime, or quarters, ( cuz I just don't like the small coins' feel ), but for halves... I have a list of all dates with know varieties in my head and on the table in front of me. (Cuz I read the book first !!!) A. I open the roll slide out all the coins and check the edge for silver. Separate those. B. Check the obverse for 1: die cracks/cuds near the edge 2: die cracks near the bust 3: doubled lettering on TRUST C. Check the reverse for 1. "FG" 2. die cracks/cuds near the edge 3. Doubled lettering on "HALF DOLLAR" ( a current notion ) D. Drop an unwanted coin in a coin tube ( directly below my hands ) to be rolled when the tube is full. I have a 5x magnifying glass for dates with supposed DD, or for weird things that catch my eye. With practice (4 years) I do a roll (20 coins) in about 1 - 1.5 minutes. I don't check for rotated dies, and some tiny things will get by me, like DD by checking the stars on reverse, but me eyes can't focus that well anyway. Paul "Ron" wrote in message ... So, since I don't want to blame myself, I need to blame one of you guys..... I am taking a few days off from work this week and got bored today...so, not having spare money, i decided to "exchange" some money on a "loan" basis.... I went to a bank in town (~30 miles outside of Seattle) and got: 12 rolls of nickels (thanks to Larry...or, curse him , I have the Harris&Co. Nickel holders (ummm...I forgot to get te PRE-1962 one though ). 12 Rolls of dimes 10 Rolls of pennies 20 rolls of quarters (I am only doing state quarters....why oh why did I get all those quarters????) and misc $0.50 and Sac $1 coins ( a few 1971 and 1991 and some 1976....nothing prior to 1971 for the kennedys). So far, I have only done the nickels......that took HOURS because I am not used to doing rolls (what are YOUR guys' methods to this madness?) I put done a small table, opened 1 roll at a time, and divided into the year and now will do year-by-year and put into the holder. I also had $4.20 in nickels from pocket change that was waiting for my nickel folder to arrive this week. Here are the highlights of my first nickel dive....very unscientific and very time-consuming....and, I culled the crap coins (really marred, really scratched, unreadable (all were 1964 or later like this though) right off the bat and didn't count them... First off...THERE WERE A BUTTLOAD of 1964 nickels made (yes...I finally looked at the redbook and saw there were more than a BILLION of the 1964 AND of the 1964D EACH. I got 1 canadian 1995 nickel (ALL were bankrolled...the bank doesn't screen for them in their own rolls, but when I use their sorting machines to cash in the coins, they screen them out? say what????) (1) 1939 - Somewhere between F-12 and VF-20 (I am new to nickels and using the photograde book I just received from Larry Calder) (1) 1953 - Probably a VG-8 due to wear on the rev and some scratches on the obv..otherwise, the obv would be ~F-12 (1) 1954D - another VG-8..maybe a little stronger, not much though (1) 1957 - probably F-12. Toning This was actual pocket change last week (1) 1958D - A little more than a F-12 but not quite all the VF-20 (3) 1960D - (1 cleaned, 1 G-8, 1 F-12) (1) 1961D - F-12+ but scratches that look like it was wiped. So, those all await something to hold them in...I need to get just the 1938-1961 holder now.... Then, I have found ALL the rest up through 2002 EXCEPT I found NO 1966 and 1967!!! What is up with that? (0) 1962 (1) 1962D - VF-12 (0) 1963 (2) 1963D (4) 1964 - all seem nice but worn VG-8 - lmost VF20 (18) 1964D - most around F-12 (2) 1965 - Higher than VF-20 but looks rubbed/cleaned (0) 1966 (0) 1967 (2) 1968S F-12+ (1) 1968D F-12+ (3) 1968S (2) 1969D (4) 1970S (3) 1970D (1) 1971 (4) 1971D (1) 1972 (4) 1972D - interesting FILTHY coin that is close to AU-50 (0) 1973 (6) 1973D (1) 1974 (3) 1974D (3) 1975 (2) 1975D (1) 1976 (6) 1976D (3) 1977 (4) 1977D (3) 1978 (3) 1978D (5) 1979 (7) 1979D - 2 appear almost PL but one has too many scratches for me (1) 1980 (9) 1980D - some are clear/open MM and some seem filled (5) 1981 (1) 1981D (4) 1982 (4) 1982D (4) 1983 (4) 1983D (1) 1984 (9) 1984D (4) 1985 (9) 1985D (2) 1986 (4) 1986D (3) 1987 - all 3 seem to have same wear on rims...weak? (12) 1987D - 1 is weirdly/radically toned (8) 1988 (11) 1988D (2) 1989 (15) 1989D (1) 1990 (8) 1990D (4) 1991 (14) 1991D (1) 1992 (10) 1992D (0) 1993 (9) 1993D (0) 1994 (14) 1994D (8) 1995 (18) 1995D That finishes THAT book.... 7 holes currently Most of the coins seem to be VF-20 thru VF-40 (the '70s are largely VF it looks like) with some in VG-8+ and some in AU-50 or so (I don't call coins I get in change or rolls from the bank that are mixed MS coins....just doesn't seem right to me even if they look it......anyone tell me differently? I will listen. So, for book two (jeez....this is taking FOREVER...lot of nickels....next will be pennies.....shades oh shades....that will be a lot of time I think)....my fingers and especially my thumbs are already killing me starting on ~1993 (3) 1996 (21) 1996D (1) 1997 - would be EF-40+ but it is covered in scratches (20) 1997D (4) 1998 (28) 1998D (0) 1999 (40) 1999D (3) 2000 (27) 2000D - Some of these are PL in appearance....imho.kinda cool (was there a change in composition or something?) (0) 2001 (22) 2001D (3) 2002 (37) 2003D - got a noticeable end roll toned coin...cool That gives me 2 current holes (4) if you include this year (I haven't seen 2003 yet....and since I live in Washington State, I probably won't see the P MM for awhile...since that MM constitutes my holes for all of them so far) Total time to unwrap nickels, put into year-piles, and then put into the books and sort them.... 5 hours+ !!!!! How do you guys do it? Now, do I keep some of the nickels or toss them back into the stream of finances? Ron |
#4
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Ron wrote
(I don't call coins I get in change or rolls from the bank that are mixed MS coins....just doesn't seem right to me even if they look it......anyone tell me differently? I will listen. Yes, even if you find a coin in a puddle of mud, if there is no sign of wear, no luster breaks, it is MS. John |
#5
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Ummm......nickels go quickly?
Did you see how long I took? That is quickly? I did wheaties (bought on ebay as one of my first coin buys months ago) with the wife and it took SOOO long and hurt the thumbs SOOO much from putting into albums that she shudders whenever I put a penny near her and say "let's look at pennies" . She decided, right after that, NOT to do state quarters like she was going to, but do gold pieces......I think one of the reasons was because they are so expensive we won't get any/many gold pieces too often. heh. The reason for my massive undertaking, at the initial onset right now, is to just get as many dates/MMs as I can for the albums to complete them for my 17mo son. I want him to have something that is as complete as possible to keep him interested (there is nothing like frustration causing you to give up a project because you can't finish it). After I complete the sets, as much as I can (and, Steve, I looked at your list online and will probably be in contact with you asking for the extras (and seeing what I need to trade with you , if I have anything you want like that...I think you are more established than I am) I will do the occassional roll and start trying to upgrade the pieces and look for errors, etc. Man...I just about dreamt 1964 nickels all night.....why oh why were THAT many minted that year? btw...I thank you both for the advice on what you keep and what you chuck....I wasn't sure what was good or not for nickels that way.... now...I have to do 12 rolls of dimes.......(probably before the 11 rolls of pennies ). I was sad...no buffalo nickels or anything cool....just a canadian nickel Ron On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 08:49:16 -0400, Alan & Erin Williams wrote: Steve wrote: Ron, I have lots of "extra" nickels. If you want, check my list and see if I have anything you need. LMK what you find. As for not finding a '67(with a mintage of 107,324,750), for some reason they are terribly hard to find. Just ask Alan, he'll tell you. My system is simple. I sit down and go through one roll at a time. I keep everything before 1970 with the exception of 1964(unless in EF or better), all the S-mints, all the '71's, and all the pristine newer dates. I then roll up the others and take them back to the bank on my next trip. I second Steve's post. ;-) Those are exactly the parameters I search as well, pre-1970 (except 1964, although I have kept one or two for exceptionally high grade, interesting countermark or a diebreak or chip or something). I've found a total of 14 1967 Jefferson nickels from roll searches in the past 30 months or so. That's out of something like 20,000 coins searched, IIRC. I'd never attempt as massive a search as you have undertaken...all that change at once! Nickels do go pretty quickly, but the cents will absolutely slow you down. ;-) Alan 'lots of flipping' |
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