1982 (No-P) Dime Greysheet Question

Hi all,

For the 1982 (No-P) Dime, what are the requirements for the "strong
strike" as mentioned in the Greysheet? and how much should i discount
for one that isn't strong?

Thanks,

Mike

wrote:
Hi all,

For the 1982 (No-P) Dime, what are the requirements for the
"strong
strike" as mentioned in the Greysheet? and how much should i
discount
for one that isn't strong?

Thanks,

Mike

The diagnostic that I look for is the "2" in the date. On the strong
strike variety, the "2" in the date looks normal. On the weak strike,
the tail of the "2" flattens and blends into the rim. I think the weak
ones sell for about half the price in the greysheet.

reality wrote:
wrote:
Hi all,

For the 1982 (No-P) Dime, what are the requirements for the
"strong
strike" as mentioned in the Greysheet? and how much should i
discount
for one that isn't strong?

Thanks,

Mike

The diagnostic that I look for is the "2" in the date. On the strong
strike variety, the "2" in the date looks normal. On the weak
strike,
the tail of the "2" flattens and blends into the rim. I think the
weak
ones sell for about half the price in the greysheet.

Thanks for the info.


Taking the website

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=3955981 968

does this qualify as a strong strike or not?

Thanks,

Mike

wrote:
reality wrote:
wrote:
Hi all,

For the 1982 (No-P) Dime, what are the requirements for the
"strong
strike" as mentioned in the Greysheet? and how much should i
discount
for one that isn't strong?

Thanks,

Mike

The diagnostic that I look for is the "2" in the date. On the
strong
strike variety, the "2" in the date looks normal. On the weak
strike,
the tail of the "2" flattens and blends into the rim. I think the
weak
ones sell for about half the price in the greysheet.

Thanks for the info.


Taking the website


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=3955981 968

does this qualify as a strong strike or not?

Thanks,

Mike

Yes, that one looks like a strong strike by the picture.