A collecting forum. CollectingBanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » CollectingBanter forum » Collecting newsgroups » Juke Boxes
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

Seeburg AY100 Problem



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old June 23rd 03, 12:41 PM
Dan
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeburg AY100 Problem

Hi all,

I'm working on getting a volt meter to test for the 6.3VAC, but
haven't yet. I will let you know when I get one and the resuls when I
can test it later this week.

I did talk to a guy about getting a 12AX7. He said it'd be about $25,
and if needed the 2050 would be about $50. That seems a little high,
but I don't really know since I know these aren't widely available
parts anymore. I'm not going to buy anything though until I can test
the tubes I have and see if they work or not.

The two 0A2s are glowing purple.

Can you give me a little guidance on how to trip the mech manually? I
don't see how to do it. (I also don't see a reject button.)

One more odd thing. There is a place for a 2050 above the pulse amp
module that does not have a 2050 in it. There is also a 2050 tube
below the pulse amp module that looks like it's working. Should there
be a 2050 in both places instead of just in the bottom slot? (The top
slot has what looks like burn marks around it, so I'm wondering if a
2050 burnt out in that slot long ago.)

Resotoring this has been a lot of fun, thanks for your continuing
help!
Dan


"Don Lanway" wrote in message news:u6cJa.1015820$OV.1114784@rwcrnsc54...
First off... relax.

Now, I'm working from a DS manual here, but should be real close.
The filament supply for all the tubes EXCEPT the 5U4 come from the selector
unit, they're on all the time.
The power to the amp, the 5U4 especially, gets turned on only when the unit
is scanning or playing, so the 5U4 won't be lit up unless the motor is
spinning. If you're worried about the caps in the amp being bad, pull the
5U4, that kills the B+ and should keep you from toasting a transformer or
whatever.

The filament supply for the 12AX7 is 6.3VAC supplied by a seperate winding
just for this tube.
Take out the screw holding the pulse amp in place and wiggle the pulse amp
off of there. Check pins 1 and 6 of the socket on the selector unit for
6.3VAC, if it's there, put the pulse amp back on and double check to see if
the tube is lit.

This is a very common tube, somebody nearby should be selling them. Look up
your local antique radio club if nothing else. Whoever you find should be
able to test the tube for you also. Get the 2050 checked too.

Oh, the three small tubes right together on the selector... are the two 0A2
tubes glowing purple? They should be.

Also, if you trip the mech manually to play a record... will it cancel with
the reject button?

Hang in there,

Don

Ads
  #2  
Old June 23rd 03, 04:55 PM
Don Lanway
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Those prices sound like they're at least double what I'd pay for new tubes.
Used and tested, I'd think about six bucks and twelve or so.

The upper 2050 is part of the stepper setup, and is only needed if you have
wallboxes hooked up.
I always pull these, no sense wasting a good tube and adding unneeded heat.
The burn marks are most likely just the soot that builds up from years of
heat and living in a dirty atmosphere.

Take the cover off the mech, if you haven't already. With the unit at rest,
look on the front, about halfway up the mech, for a lever with a flat tab.
Pull up gently on this, it should snap up about a half inch. When you start
it scanning now, it should load whatever record it's in front of. Same lever
trips to reject the record.

Reject or cancel button should be just below the on/off switch, unless the
AY didn't have one.

Good luck,

Don
Oregon Jukebox

"Dan" wrote in message
om...
Hi all,

I'm working on getting a volt meter to test for the 6.3VAC, but
haven't yet. I will let you know when I get one and the resuls when I
can test it later this week.

I did talk to a guy about getting a 12AX7. He said it'd be about $25,
and if needed the 2050 would be about $50. That seems a little high,
but I don't really know since I know these aren't widely available
parts anymore. I'm not going to buy anything though until I can test
the tubes I have and see if they work or not.

The two 0A2s are glowing purple.

Can you give me a little guidance on how to trip the mech manually? I
don't see how to do it. (I also don't see a reject button.)

One more odd thing. There is a place for a 2050 above the pulse amp
module that does not have a 2050 in it. There is also a 2050 tube
below the pulse amp module that looks like it's working. Should there
be a 2050 in both places instead of just in the bottom slot? (The top
slot has what looks like burn marks around it, so I'm wondering if a
2050 burnt out in that slot long ago.)

Resotoring this has been a lot of fun, thanks for your continuing
help!
Dan


"Don Lanway" wrote in message

news:u6cJa.1015820$OV.1114784@rwcrnsc54...
First off... relax.

Now, I'm working from a DS manual here, but should be real close.
The filament supply for all the tubes EXCEPT the 5U4 come from the

selector
unit, they're on all the time.
The power to the amp, the 5U4 especially, gets turned on only when the

unit
is scanning or playing, so the 5U4 won't be lit up unless the motor is
spinning. If you're worried about the caps in the amp being bad, pull

the
5U4, that kills the B+ and should keep you from toasting a transformer

or
whatever.

The filament supply for the 12AX7 is 6.3VAC supplied by a seperate

winding
just for this tube.
Take out the screw holding the pulse amp in place and wiggle the pulse

amp
off of there. Check pins 1 and 6 of the socket on the selector unit for
6.3VAC, if it's there, put the pulse amp back on and double check to see

if
the tube is lit.

This is a very common tube, somebody nearby should be selling them. Look

up
your local antique radio club if nothing else. Whoever you find should

be
able to test the tube for you also. Get the 2050 checked too.

Oh, the three small tubes right together on the selector... are the two

0A2
tubes glowing purple? They should be.

Also, if you trip the mech manually to play a record... will it cancel

with
the reject button?

Hang in there,

Don



---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.489 / Virus Database: 288 - Release Date: 6/10/03


  #3  
Old June 25th 03, 10:27 AM
Bob
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Don Lanway" wrote in message . ..
Those prices sound like they're at least double what I'd pay for new tubes.
Used and tested, I'd think about six bucks and twelve or so.

The upper 2050 is part of the stepper setup, and is only needed if you have
wallboxes hooked up.
I always pull these, no sense wasting a good tube and adding unneeded heat.
The burn marks are most likely just the soot that builds up from years of
heat and living in a dirty atmosphere.

Take the cover off the mech, if you haven't already. With the unit at rest,
look on the front, about halfway up the mech, for a lever with a flat tab.
Pull up gently on this, it should snap up about a half inch. When you start
it scanning now, it should load whatever record it's in front of. Same lever
trips to reject the record.

Reject or cancel button should be just below the on/off switch, unless the
AY didn't have one.


Dan

I tried to call you twice at your work number. I left you my home
number, I assume that you must be out of town or have fixed your juke.

Bob in Baltimore
Good luck,

Don
Oregon Jukebox

"Dan" wrote in message
om...
Hi all,

I'm working on getting a volt meter to test for the 6.3VAC, but
haven't yet. I will let you know when I get one and the resuls when I
can test it later this week.

I did talk to a guy about getting a 12AX7. He said it'd be about $25,
and if needed the 2050 would be about $50. That seems a little high,
but I don't really know since I know these aren't widely available
parts anymore. I'm not going to buy anything though until I can test
the tubes I have and see if they work or not.

The two 0A2s are glowing purple.

Can you give me a little guidance on how to trip the mech manually? I
don't see how to do it. (I also don't see a reject button.)

One more odd thing. There is a place for a 2050 above the pulse amp
module that does not have a 2050 in it. There is also a 2050 tube
below the pulse amp module that looks like it's working. Should there
be a 2050 in both places instead of just in the bottom slot? (The top
slot has what looks like burn marks around it, so I'm wondering if a
2050 burnt out in that slot long ago.)

Resotoring this has been a lot of fun, thanks for your continuing
help!
Dan


"Don Lanway" wrote in message

news:u6cJa.1015820$OV.1114784@rwcrnsc54...
First off... relax.

Now, I'm working from a DS manual here, but should be real close.
The filament supply for all the tubes EXCEPT the 5U4 come from the

selector
unit, they're on all the time.
The power to the amp, the 5U4 especially, gets turned on only when the

unit
is scanning or playing, so the 5U4 won't be lit up unless the motor is
spinning. If you're worried about the caps in the amp being bad, pull

the
5U4, that kills the B+ and should keep you from toasting a transformer

or
whatever.

The filament supply for the 12AX7 is 6.3VAC supplied by a seperate

winding
just for this tube.
Take out the screw holding the pulse amp in place and wiggle the pulse

amp
off of there. Check pins 1 and 6 of the socket on the selector unit for
6.3VAC, if it's there, put the pulse amp back on and double check to see

if
the tube is lit.

This is a very common tube, somebody nearby should be selling them. Look

up
your local antique radio club if nothing else. Whoever you find should

be
able to test the tube for you also. Get the 2050 checked too.

Oh, the three small tubes right together on the selector... are the two

0A2
tubes glowing purple? They should be.

Also, if you trip the mech manually to play a record... will it cancel

with
the reject button?

Hang in there,

Don



---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.489 / Virus Database: 288 - Release Date: 6/10/03

  #4  
Old June 27th 03, 01:02 PM
Dan
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Hi All,

Working with Bob on the phone last night we were able to play a record
through tripping the mech manually. We also discovered that there is
6.7VAC into the pulse amp after figuring out which was pin 1 and 6. So
since the 12AX7 is not lit (on the pulse amp), that still seems to be
the problem.

I'll work on getting a 12AX7 soon and let you know what happens.

Thanks to everyone for all the advice and help!
Dan
 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
IMDB photo problem dahoov2 Autographs 12 August 23rd 04 11:10 PM
The problem with the tumbleweed board... trippin2-8track 8 Track Tapes 32 February 27th 04 02:03 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 CollectingBanter.
The comments are property of their posters.