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Tech: Need advice about a 1966 Wurlitzer Model 3010
Guys,
First off, I'm a pinball guy and I need some expert juke advice. I'm going to go look at this juke on Saturday. I have only seen email pics so far and the box looks nice. The seller says it works with the exception of the volume is so low it can barely be heard. Is this something serious or maybe just a bad capacitor? They are asking $600 and that includes the wall box. That seems a little high to me......What do you guys think about the low volume problem and the price? Thanks in advance, Larry |
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Tech: Need advice about a 1966 Wurlitzer Model 3010
wedgehead3 wrote:
Guys, First off, I'm a pinball guy and I need some expert juke advice. I'm going to go look at this juke on Saturday. I have only seen email pics so far and the box looks nice. The seller says it works with the exception of the volume is so low it can barely be heard. Is this something serious or maybe just a bad capacitor? They are asking $600 and that includes the wall box. That seems a little high to me......What do you guys think about the low volume problem and the price? Thanks in advance, Larry The 3000 series is a solid machine, quite reliable if oiled once in a while...I do recommend oiling all moving metal parts and rollers. The amp problem sounds typical for this vintage, simply replace the electrolytic caps on the PCB and all should be fine. Do replace the power cord at the same time as it is likely to be getting brittle. I have original manuals for sale or they are downloadable from a few sites - you can hunt those down easily enough. I do have some NOS parts for machines of this vintage if you need anything. The price sounds reasonable considering it includes a wallbox and stepper! John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
#3
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Tech: Need advice about a 1966 Wurlitzer Model 3010
On Oct 14, 8:44*pm, wedgehead3 wrote:
Guys, First off, I'm a pinball guy and I need some expert juke advice. I'm going to go look at this juke on Saturday. I have only seen email pics so far and the box looks nice. The seller says it works with the exception of the volume is so low it can barely be heard. Is this something serious or maybe just a bad capacitor? They are asking $600 and that includes the wall box. That seems a little high to me......What do you guys think about the low volume problem *and the price? Thanks in advance, Larry Larry, these machines used a ceramic pickup which will likely have failed by now, ask if it has been replaced, Better yet -check if it has an "F" shaped stylus, it is sort of flag shaped and the cartridge has a plug-in base with wires soldered onto the plug instead of the slip-on pin connectors that any replacement will have. Since that amp is designed for a ceramic pickup, you can easily test whether the low volume is amp or pickup related. Bring an MP3 player, Cd player or even just a radio tuner with a cord that has male RCA plugs. Plug them into where the pickup goes in, make a selection and once the needle is on the record you should be able to instead whatever you plugged into that amp. How is the sound quality then? Wurlitzer made some bumbling mech designs but surprisingly had no trouble in adopting printed circuits and their transistor amps of that vintage are -very- reliable. The biggest problem with the carousel mach (models 1700-3300) was the enormous strain on the motor that pulls down the record lift arms. they got away with this stupid situation when using the original DC motor, but the later mechs, such as yours had a more delicate AC motor with smaller gears. If those break or jam, you have a problem. I carefully stretch the large springs under the deck to weaken them and this relieves much of the stress on that motor. The 100selection machines were much simpler than the 200's and less goes wrong in the selection system. You should try to make every "A" and "B" selection by IIRC A!-B2 this is to see if any of the plunger that hit the pins in the selector wheel (below mech) get stuck between pins. Also check fuses for proper values. I have seen cases where the large driver solenoid (in the selector wheel) was drawing too much current due to shorted turns and someone just put in a larger fuse. Changing that solenoid is no big deal, it's pretty standard. The steppers of that era are notorious for having stiff stepper wheels --particularly those with white nylon stepper gears- the plastic would dry and shrink against the metal axle and crack. If possible make several selections especially in the lower number/letters At those points the stepper wheel springs are not wound up tight and thus have less inertia to set them back to home position. So if there is binding, the selection after say, an A-1 will wrong if the wheels don't re-set properly. Rob |
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Tech: Need advice about a 1966 Wurlitzer Model 3010
On Oct 14, 10:59*pm, John Robertson wrote:
wedgehead3 wrote: Guys, First off, I'm a pinball guy and I need some expert juke advice. I'm going to go look at this juke on Saturday. I have only seen email pics so far and the box looks nice. The seller says it works with the exception of the volume is so low it can barely be heard. Is this something serious or maybe just a bad capacitor? They are asking $600 and that includes the wall box. That seems a little high to me......What do you guys think about the low volume problem *and the price? Thanks in advance, Larry The 3000 series is a solid machine, quite reliable if oiled once in a while...I do recommend oiling all moving metal parts and rollers. The amp problem sounds typical for this vintage, simply replace the electrolytic caps on the PCB and all should be fine. Do replace the power cord at the same time as it is likely to be getting brittle. I have original manuals for sale or they are downloadable from a few sites - you can hunt those down easily enough. I do have some NOS parts for machines of this vintage if you need anything. The price sounds reasonable considering it includes a wallbox and stepper! John :-#)# -- * * (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) * John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 * Call(604)872-5757or Fax872-2010(Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) * * * * * * * * * * *www.flippers.com * * * *"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." John and Rob, Thanks so much for the info. I ended up buying the box and will pick it up on Tuesday evening (10/19) providing it isn't raining. I'm sure I'll be back here asking you experts some more questions as I proceed in trying to get this low volume issue resolved. It also sounds like the speed comes and goes as it's playing a record. Any tips on that issue? I understand when transporting a juke that some part of the mech needs to be locked down. Is this true and does this box (Wurlitzer 3010) have such a locking device or do I have to remove anything from the box before transporting? Thanks in advance.... Larry |
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Tech: Need advice about a 1966 Wurlitzer Model 3010
On Oct 17, 4:26*pm, wedgehead3 wrote:
On Oct 14, 10:59*pm, John Robertson wrote: wedgehead3 wrote: Guys, First off, I'm a pinball guy and I need some expert juke advice. I'm going to go look at this juke on Saturday. I have only seen email pics so far and the box looks nice. The seller says it works with the exception of the volume is so low it can barely be heard. Is this something serious or maybe just a bad capacitor? They are asking $600 and that includes the wall box. That seems a little high to me......What do you guys think about the low volume problem *and the price? Thanks in advance, Larry The 3000 series is a solid machine, quite reliable if oiled once in a while...I do recommend oiling all moving metal parts and rollers. The amp problem sounds typical for this vintage, simply replace the electrolytic caps on the PCB and all should be fine. Do replace the power cord at the same time as it is likely to be getting brittle. I have original manuals for sale or they are downloadable from a few sites - you can hunt those down easily enough. I do have some NOS parts for machines of this vintage if you need anything. The price sounds reasonable considering it includes a wallbox and stepper! John :-#)# -- * * (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) * John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 * Call(604)872-5757or Fax872-2010(Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) * * * * * * * * * * *www.flippers.com * * * *"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." John and Rob, Thanks so much for the info. I ended up buying the box and will pick it up on Tuesday evening (10/19) providing it isn't raining. I'm sure I'll be back here asking you experts some more questions as I proceed in trying to get this low volume issue resolved. It also sounds like the speed comes and goes as it's playing a record. Any tips on that issue? I understand when transporting a juke that some part of the mech needs to be locked down. Is this true and does this box (Wurlitzer 3010) have such a locking device or do I have to remove anything from the box before transporting? Thanks in advance.... Larry Larry, there are four tie-down bolts at each corner of the mach top plate. they are captive and stick up from below. take the back off the machine and look at each side where the mech sits on springs. Next, check that the amp is secured with a snap-in bolt just above it, make sure that the coin mech and any other parts such as the stepper (on floor) are secured with their brackets. If the machine is going to lie down on it's back for the trip, it is essential to remove the records and title holders Make -sure- the lid glass is locked. You might want to put a piece of tape across the fluorescent lamps to secure them. As for speed irregularity, its often difficult to eliminate ant trace of wow on the old Wurlitzers, These models used a combination of belts and rubber puck to drive the turntable. the belts often stretch and develop a knuckle if left standing for a long time and the puck's rubber tire dries out. The belt is available through one of the dealers in Always Jukin and the puck can be rebuilt w/new rubber if cleaning doesn't fix it. Again, these models were rarely completely wow free. Good luck. |
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Tech: Need advice about a 1966 Wurlitzer Model 3010
On Oct 18, 5:40*am, Rob in NYC wrote:
On Oct 17, 4:26*pm, wedgehead3 wrote: On Oct 14, 10:59*pm, John Robertson wrote: wedgehead3 wrote: Guys, First off, I'm a pinball guy and I need some expert juke advice. I'm going to go look at this juke on Saturday. I have only seen email pics so far and the box looks nice. The seller says it works with the exception of the volume is so low it can barely be heard. Is this something serious or maybe just a bad capacitor? They are asking $600 and that includes the wall box. That seems a little high to me......What do you guys think about the low volume problem *and the price? Thanks in advance, Larry The 3000 series is a solid machine, quite reliable if oiled once in a while...I do recommend oiling all moving metal parts and rollers. The amp problem sounds typical for this vintage, simply replace the electrolytic caps on the PCB and all should be fine. Do replace the power cord at the same time as it is likely to be getting brittle. I have original manuals for sale or they are downloadable from a few sites - you can hunt those down easily enough. I do have some NOS parts for machines of this vintage if you need anything. The price sounds reasonable considering it includes a wallbox and stepper! John :-#)# -- * * (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) * John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 * Call(604)872-5757or Fax872-2010(Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) * * * * * * * * * * *www.flippers.com * * * *"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." John and Rob, Thanks so much for the info. I ended up buying the box and will pick it up on Tuesday evening (10/19) providing it isn't raining. I'm sure I'll be back here asking you experts some more questions as I proceed in trying to get this low volume issue resolved. It also sounds like the speed comes and goes as it's playing a record. Any tips on that issue? I understand when transporting a juke that some part of the mech needs to be locked down. Is this true and does this box (Wurlitzer 3010) have such a locking device or do I have to remove anything from the box before transporting? Thanks in advance.... Larry Larry, there are four tie-down bolts at each corner of the mach top plate. they are captive and stick up from below. take the back off the machine and look at each side where the mech sits on springs. Next, check that the amp is secured with a snap-in bolt just above it, make sure that the coin mech and any other parts such as the stepper (on floor) are secured with their brackets. If the machine is going to lie down on it's back for the trip, it is essential to remove the records and title holders Make -sure- the lid glass is locked. You might want to put a piece of tape across the fluorescent lamps to secure them. As for speed irregularity, its often difficult to eliminate ant trace of wow on the old Wurlitzers, *These models used a combination of belts and rubber puck to drive the turntable. the belts often stretch and develop a knuckle if left standing for a long time and the puck's rubber tire dries out. The belt is available through one of the dealers in Always Jukin and the puck can be rebuilt w/new rubber if cleaning doesn't fix it. *Again, these models were rarely completely wow free. Good luck. Rob, Thanks for your advice. It was very helpful. We got the juke moved and it still works, so I guess we did something right........In an earlier post I mentioned that this box has very low volume and it was mentioned that I probably need to install a cap kit in the amp. I now have a new cap kit (Victory Glass) and I'm wondering if this is a job I can do myself. The kit came with a schematic. I haven't as yet removed the amp from the cabinet. My question to you or the group is this: Are there identifying marks on the amp that will help guide me thru the installation of each component? I am comfortable with soldering as I am an avid pinball collector/restorer, but I have no experience with jukes, much less rebuilding an amp. Is this a relatively easy job? I know it will take time, but is it something for a jukebox novice to tackle? Thanks in advance, Larry |
#7
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Tech: Need advice about a 1966 Wurlitzer Model 3010
wedgehead3 wrote:
On Oct 18, 5:40 am, Rob in NYC wrote: On Oct 17, 4:26 pm, wedgehead3 wrote: On Oct 14, 10:59 pm, John Robertson wrote: wedgehead3 wrote: Guys, First off, I'm a pinball guy and I need some expert juke advice. I'm going to go look at this juke on Saturday. I have only seen email pics so far and the box looks nice. The seller says it works with the exception of the volume is so low it can barely be heard. Is this something serious or maybe just a bad capacitor? They are asking $600 and that includes the wall box. That seems a little high to me......What do you guys think about the low volume problem and the price? Thanks in advance, Larry The 3000 series is a solid machine, quite reliable if oiled once in a while...I do recommend oiling all moving metal parts and rollers. The amp problem sounds typical for this vintage, simply replace the electrolytic caps on the PCB and all should be fine. Do replace the power cord at the same time as it is likely to be getting brittle. I have original manuals for sale or they are downloadable from a few sites - you can hunt those down easily enough. I do have some NOS parts for machines of this vintage if you need anything. The price sounds reasonable considering it includes a wallbox and stepper! John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 Call(604)872-5757or Fax872-2010(Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." John and Rob, Thanks so much for the info. I ended up buying the box and will pick it up on Tuesday evening (10/19) providing it isn't raining. I'm sure I'll be back here asking you experts some more questions as I proceed in trying to get this low volume issue resolved. It also sounds like the speed comes and goes as it's playing a record. Any tips on that issue? I understand when transporting a juke that some part of the mech needs to be locked down. Is this true and does this box (Wurlitzer 3010) have such a locking device or do I have to remove anything from the box before transporting? Thanks in advance.... Larry Larry, there are four tie-down bolts at each corner of the mach top plate. they are captive and stick up from below. take the back off the machine and look at each side where the mech sits on springs. Next, check that the amp is secured with a snap-in bolt just above it, make sure that the coin mech and any other parts such as the stepper (on floor) are secured with their brackets. If the machine is going to lie down on it's back for the trip, it is essential to remove the records and title holders Make -sure- the lid glass is locked. You might want to put a piece of tape across the fluorescent lamps to secure them. As for speed irregularity, its often difficult to eliminate ant trace of wow on the old Wurlitzers, These models used a combination of belts and rubber puck to drive the turntable. the belts often stretch and develop a knuckle if left standing for a long time and the puck's rubber tire dries out. The belt is available through one of the dealers in Always Jukin and the puck can be rebuilt w/new rubber if cleaning doesn't fix it. Again, these models were rarely completely wow free. Good luck. Rob, Thanks for your advice. It was very helpful. We got the juke moved and it still works, so I guess we did something right........In an earlier post I mentioned that this box has very low volume and it was mentioned that I probably need to install a cap kit in the amp. I now have a new cap kit (Victory Glass) and I'm wondering if this is a job I can do myself. The kit came with a schematic. I haven't as yet removed the amp from the cabinet. My question to you or the group is this: Are there identifying marks on the amp that will help guide me thru the installation of each component? I am comfortable with soldering as I am an avid pinball collector/restorer, but I have no experience with jukes, much less rebuilding an amp. Is this a relatively easy job? I know it will take time, but is it something for a jukebox novice to tackle? Thanks in advance, Larry Depending on the level of instructions that are included with the cap kit you may or may not have any problems...certainly jukebox amps that use circuit boards are quite easy to recap. There are others (Seeburg 222) that are rather nasty and time consuming due to the parts mounted on lug boards that are mounted scrunched into the amp and must be extracted with great care. I suspect things will go pretty smoothly for your 3010 recap though! John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
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Tech: Need advice about a 1966 Wurlitzer Model 3010
On Oct 31, 9:30*pm, John Robertson wrote:
wedgehead3 wrote: On Oct 18, 5:40 am, Rob in NYC wrote: On Oct 17, 4:26 pm, wedgehead3 wrote: On Oct 14, 10:59 pm, John Robertson wrote: wedgehead3 wrote: Guys, First off, I'm a pinball guy and I need some expert juke advice. I'm going to go look at this juke on Saturday. I have only seen email pics so far and the box looks nice. The seller says it works with the exception of the volume is so low it can barely be heard. Is this something serious or maybe just a bad capacitor? They are asking $600 and that includes the wall box. That seems a little high to me......What do you guys think about the low volume problem *and the price? Thanks in advance, Larry The 3000 series is a solid machine, quite reliable if oiled once in a while...I do recommend oiling all moving metal parts and rollers. The amp problem sounds typical for this vintage, simply replace the electrolytic caps on the PCB and all should be fine. Do replace the power cord at the same time as it is likely to be getting brittle. I have original manuals for sale or they are downloadable from a few sites - you can hunt those down easily enough. I do have some NOS parts for machines of this vintage if you need anything. The price sounds reasonable considering it includes a wallbox and stepper! John :-#)# -- * * (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) * John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 * Call(604)872-5757or Fax872-2010(Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) * * * * * * * * * * *www.flippers.com * * * *"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." John and Rob, Thanks so much for the info. I ended up buying the box and will pick it up on Tuesday evening (10/19) providing it isn't raining. I'm sure I'll be back here asking you experts some more questions as I proceed in trying to get this low volume issue resolved. It also sounds like the speed comes and goes as it's playing a record. Any tips on that issue? I understand when transporting a juke that some part of the mech needs to be locked down. Is this true and does this box (Wurlitzer 3010) have such a locking device or do I have to remove anything from the box before transporting? Thanks in advance.... Larry Larry, there are four tie-down bolts at each corner of the mach top plate. they are captive and stick up from below. take the back off the machine and look at each side where the mech sits on springs. Next, check that the amp is secured with a snap-in bolt just above it, make sure that the coin mech and any other parts such as the stepper (on floor) are secured with their brackets. If the machine is going to lie down on it's back for the trip, it is essential to remove the records and title holders Make -sure- the lid glass is locked. You might want to put a piece of tape across the fluorescent lamps to secure them. As for speed irregularity, its often difficult to eliminate ant trace of wow on the old Wurlitzers, *These models used a combination of belts and rubber puck to drive the turntable. the belts often stretch and develop a knuckle if left standing for a long time and the puck's rubber tire dries out. The belt is available through one of the dealers in Always Jukin and the puck can be rebuilt w/new rubber if cleaning doesn't fix it. *Again, these models were rarely completely wow free. Good luck. Rob, Thanks for your advice. It was very helpful. We got the juke moved and it still works, so I guess we did something right........In an earlier post I mentioned that this box has very low volume and it was mentioned that I probably need to install a cap kit in the amp. I now have a new cap kit (Victory Glass) and I'm wondering if this is a job I can do myself. The kit came with a schematic. I haven't as yet removed the amp from the cabinet. My question to you or the group is this: Are there identifying marks on the amp that will help guide me thru the installation of each component? I am comfortable with soldering as I am an avid pinball collector/restorer, but I have no experience with jukes, much less rebuilding an amp. Is this a relatively easy job? I know it will take time, but is it something for a jukebox novice to tackle? Thanks in advance, Larry Depending on the level of instructions that are included with the cap kit you may or may not have any problems...certainly jukebox amps that use circuit boards are quite easy to recap. There are others (Seeburg 222) that are rather nasty and time consuming due to the parts mounted on lug boards that are mounted scrunched into the amp and must be extracted with great care. I suspect things will go pretty smoothly for your 3010 recap though! John :-#)# -- * * (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) * John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 * Call(604)872-5757or Fax872-2010(Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) * * * * * * * * * * *www.flippers.com * * * *"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." Thanks, John. I hope you're right about this re-cap job going pretty smoothly. Like I said, I'm mostly an EM pinball guy and have never attempted to rebuild ANY juke amp. If the old amp components are well marked, I'll feel confidant. But if they aren't, that's another story. Thanks again, I appreciate your encouragement. Larry |
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