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Old January 26th 16, 04:01 AM posted to alt.collecting.juke-boxes
Dominic Tiberio
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Posts: 5
Default OMT1015/CD - two left zeroes blinking


If the K7 actuator is shifting then it may be cracked and you may need
to replace it. The new, stronger, ones are black by the way.

As for your other problem, I am assuming here that you have a CDM-3
player (please verify using the photos on my page). If a CDM-3, the
first thing to do is to replace the thermistor, found in the middle of
the interface PCB that is immediately to the left of the SC&C (Selection
and Credit Computer) with a 3A fuse. The thermistor may be causing an
excessive voltage drop and I always replace them.

Second - if the TOC light is not going out AND the CD is spinning, then
something is wrong with either the CDM-3 player OR the CD-Control box
has an issue. However before tearing into that, check the serial number
of your machine against the serial numbers on that page that cover a
problem with bad transistors that can lead to the same symptoms.

I recommend you read the entire page - I wish I was a better technical
writer though...

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."


Let me start by saying a heartfelt thank you for all of the information you have made available online, it has been my bible throughout this project! I have a fair bit of experience repairing and restoring pins but my wife's dream has been to own a Wurlitzer 1015 bubbler and when I purchased the unit I did I never dreamed there would be so little information and parts online. You have been a lifesaver!

I have a CDM3 player, and the laser does appear to work and activate (I checked with my phone camera tonight). I have read all of your info multiple times and tonight thought I would replace the thermistor with a 3A 250V fast blow glass pigtail fuse but lo and behold when I opened the metal cover on the panel to the left of the SCC it didn't have a thermistor and it looks a lot different than your reference photos. It all says CD 2500 on it like yours (both the SCC plastic cover and the PCB of the board under the metal cover. I can take photos if that would help. I'm a bit stumped at the moment.

Aside from the thermistor/fuse option I'm guessing I'll need to start troubleshooting the CD Controller unit, but that I don't see a lot of info about.. I did see your notes about the opt-coupler(s) but I'm not certain exactly what parts to use or if this is worth the effort vs. replacing the CDM3 and controller with one of the all in one replacements. Are those still available?

Again, I can't thank you enough for the information you have made available and your assistance here! I'll gladly purchase the few cosmetic parts I need through you once I can get it to play. I'd buy you a beverage or 12 as well
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