"Don Lanway" wrote in message . ..
Those prices sound like they're at least double what I'd pay for new tubes.
Used and tested, I'd think about six bucks and twelve or so.

The upper 2050 is part of the stepper setup, and is only needed if you have
wallboxes hooked up.
I always pull these, no sense wasting a good tube and adding unneeded heat.
The burn marks are most likely just the soot that builds up from years of
heat and living in a dirty atmosphere.

Take the cover off the mech, if you haven't already. With the unit at rest,
look on the front, about halfway up the mech, for a lever with a flat tab.
Pull up gently on this, it should snap up about a half inch. When you start
it scanning now, it should load whatever record it's in front of. Same lever
trips to reject the record.

Reject or cancel button should be just below the on/off switch, unless the
AY didn't have one.


Dan

I tried to call you twice at your work number. I left you my home
number, I assume that you must be out of town or have fixed your juke.

Bob in Baltimore
Good luck,

Don
Oregon Jukebox

"Dan" wrote in message
om...
Hi all,

I'm working on getting a volt meter to test for the 6.3VAC, but
haven't yet. I will let you know when I get one and the resuls when I
can test it later this week.

I did talk to a guy about getting a 12AX7. He said it'd be about $25,
and if needed the 2050 would be about $50. That seems a little high,
but I don't really know since I know these aren't widely available
parts anymore. I'm not going to buy anything though until I can test
the tubes I have and see if they work or not.

The two 0A2s are glowing purple.

Can you give me a little guidance on how to trip the mech manually? I
don't see how to do it. (I also don't see a reject button.)

One more odd thing. There is a place for a 2050 above the pulse amp
module that does not have a 2050 in it. There is also a 2050 tube
below the pulse amp module that looks like it's working. Should there
be a 2050 in both places instead of just in the bottom slot? (The top
slot has what looks like burn marks around it, so I'm wondering if a
2050 burnt out in that slot long ago.)

Resotoring this has been a lot of fun, thanks for your continuing
help!
Dan


"Don Lanway" wrote in message
news:u6cJa.1015820$OV.1114784@rwcrnsc54...
First off... relax.

Now, I'm working from a DS manual here, but should be real close.
The filament supply for all the tubes EXCEPT the 5U4 come from the
selector
unit, they're on all the time.
The power to the amp, the 5U4 especially, gets turned on only when the
unit
is scanning or playing, so the 5U4 won't be lit up unless the motor is
spinning. If you're worried about the caps in the amp being bad, pull
the
5U4, that kills the B+ and should keep you from toasting a transformer
or
whatever.

The filament supply for the 12AX7 is 6.3VAC supplied by a seperate
winding
just for this tube.
Take out the screw holding the pulse amp in place and wiggle the pulse
amp
off of there. Check pins 1 and 6 of the socket on the selector unit for
6.3VAC, if it's there, put the pulse amp back on and double check to see
if
the tube is lit.

This is a very common tube, somebody nearby should be selling them. Look
up
your local antique radio club if nothing else. Whoever you find should
be
able to test the tube for you also. Get the 2050 checked too.

Oh, the three small tubes right together on the selector... are the two
0A2
tubes glowing purple? They should be.

Also, if you trip the mech manually to play a record... will it cancel
with
the reject button?

Hang in there,

Don



---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.489 / Virus Database: 288 - Release Date: 6/10/03