Removing hinges
Well, I got my albums in today so I'm about ready to get started
transfering from the 50 year old book to the new ones. Question though on removing the old hinges, what's the best and safest (to the stamp) way to do this? I've also fogotten the best way to remove stamps from the portion of the envelope they're on. I know to soak them and I seem to remember that after soaking for awhile they'd just slide off and I'd place them on a paper towel to dry or is my memory faulty? Chris -- Chris KeyID 0xE372A7DA98E6705C 31.11°N 97.89°W (Elev. 1092 ft) --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- |
Removing hinges
On 5/20/2011 5:41 PM, Sir F. A. Rien wrote:
found these unused words: Well, I got my albums in today so I'm about ready to get started transfering from the 50 year old book to the new ones. Question though on removing the old hinges, what's the best and safest (to the stamp) way to do this? I've also fogotten the best way to remove stamps from the portion of the envelope they're on. I know to soak them and I seem to remember that after soaking for awhile they'd just slide off and I'd place them on a paper towel to dry or is my memory faulty? Chris There are lots of inks tat will 'run' if immersed in water. Many early stamps used 'fugitive ink' specifically to prevent cleaning and reuse. I'd suggest that you look into building a "Stamp Lift" or 'sweatbox'. simple enough, just a tight fritting lidded plastic box, a spongs and a grilled [holed] plastic piece to lay atop the sponge. Sponge is damp, but not 'wet'. Lay stamps paper down on the grill, close the lid and check in a few hours. When ready they'll slip right off the paper. This way the stamps are never so wet that the paper is affected. Many people have their methods for hinge removal. IF they will peel, then lay the stamp face down, stroke the hinge with the edge of the tong to 'break' the gum of the hinge. When you can get a grip on the hinge, using the tongs and roll it up and off the stamp. NEVER just pull ! If they won't easily peel, then "Stamp Lift". I've never run into the fugitive ink problem when soaking stamps. If the stamps are on colored envelopes, though, you should separate these stamps from those on white envelopes and might need to rinse the stamp off as soon as you remove the envelope paper. I use cardboard (the stiffeners in USPS shippers when ordering stamps from the cave work well) or blank newsprint to dry my stamps. Once dry I put them into a book overnight to get rid of the curls. Bill |
Removing hinges
On 5/20/2011 7:55 PM, Chris wrote:
Well, I got my albums in today so I'm about ready to get started transfering from the 50 year old book to the new ones. Question though on removing the old hinges, what's the best and safest (to the stamp) way to do this? If stamp and hinge peel off the page cleanly, which they often will for old hinges, especially if Dennison's or similar, and if any glue is left on the hinge, which there should be if the hinge was properly lightly moistened (and on only part of the larger page part of the hinge), and if the hinge is properly positioned just below the perfs (or top if no perfs) then just moisten the hinge and stick both into he new album. I have occasionally reused old Dennison's hinges that were so lightly moistened on the stamp part that they fall apart from the stamp without being pulled. I save these for the occasional mint stamp, as modern hinges are awful for them. tjr |
Removing hinges
On 5/22/2011 10:24 AM, Sir F. A. Rien wrote:
Terry found these unused words: "I save these for the occasional mint stamp, as modern hinges are awful for them." At which point you have dropped their value by 2/3rds. Not if already hinged, or of minimal value. Perhaps I should have said 'unused' for already hinged or gum otherwise disturbed. |
Removing hinges
On 05/23/2011 09:45 AM, Sir F. A. Rien wrote:
Terry Reedy found these unused words: On 5/22/2011 10:24 AM, Sir F. A. Rien wrote: Terry found these unused words: "I save these for the occasional mint stamp, as modern hinges are awful for them." At which point you have dropped their value by 2/3rds. Not if already hinged, or of minimal value. Perhaps I should have said 'unused' for already hinged or gum otherwise disturbed. Correct, but this is a -=returning=- collector who may not yet know the fetish of NH material and the 'loss' of 'value' by hinging. ONE hinged in a page or 'set' of otherwise NH will have the dealer heavily discounting the whole. You're so correct, I've got a lot to learn, such as what does 'NH' stand for, non-hinged? -- Chris KeyID 0xE372A7DA98E6705C 31.11°N 97.89°W (Elev. 1092 ft) --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- |
Removing hinges
On 5/23/2011 10:45 AM, Sir F. A. Rien wrote:
Correct, but this is a -=returning=- collector who may not yet know the fetish of NH material and the 'loss' of 'value' by hinging. ONE hinged in a page or 'set' of otherwise NH will have the dealer heavily discounting the whole. So if I have a NH set, I should use mounts for the whole set and not just the high values. Thanks, I had not thought of that. I have not directly bought single NH sets in years, but I have a few of more than minimal value that were mixed in with other stuff and that I have not yet added to my albums. That is partly because I do not have the mounts even for the high values, have have lots of used/hinged stuff to work with. Perhaps I should most NH material of any value separate in a stock book. Scattered plastic mounts on predominately hinged pages do not look all that good. Terry |
Removing hinges
The best thing to do with your stamps once they're soaked off the paper is to put them in a drying book (most dealers and Subway etc stock them) to
dry. They'll dry flat and not have the wrinkles you get from paper towel. A large drying book will dry about 1000 stamps a day and you can use it over and over again (though it will eventually get grubby from the various muck that is on the face of most used stamps). I use Desert Magic drying books though I'm sure there are others. You could probably make one yourself, too - a sheet of flexible plastic to put the stamp glue side down on and a couple of sheets of white blotting paper to put on top of the stamps. Put the whole lot under a phone book and voila - a load of dry stamps. As for the debate on hinged or unhinged mint, first off, they're your stamps so put them in your album however you like - it'll be the person who sells the collection who will suffer financially. I don't see too much point putting a 2 cent stamp in a 10 cent mount. A $1,000 stamp is a different matter entirely. Cheers - John Mycroft On 5/20/2011 7:55 PM, Chris wrote: Well, I got my albums in today so I'm about ready to get started transfering from the 50 year old book to the new ones. Question though on removing the old hinges, what's the best and safest (to the stamp) way to do this? I've also fogotten the best way to remove stamps from the portion of the envelope they're on. I know to soak them and I seem to remember that after soaking for awhile they'd just slide off and I'd place them on a paper towel to dry or is my memory faulty? Chris |
Removing hinges
On 06/08/2011 07:19 AM, John Mycroft wrote:
The best thing to do with your stamps once they're soaked off the paper is to put them in a drying book (most dealers and Subway etc stock them) to dry. They'll dry flat and not have the wrinkles you get from paper towel. A large drying book will dry about 1000 stamps a day and you can use it over and over again (though it will eventually get grubby from the various muck that is on the face of most used stamps). I use Desert Magic drying books though I'm sure there are others. You could probably make one yourself, too - a sheet of flexible plastic to put the stamp glue side down on and a couple of sheets of white blotting paper to put on top of the stamps. Put the whole lot under a phone book and voila - a load of dry stamps. As for the debate on hinged or unhinged mint, first off, they're your stamps so put them in your album however you like - it'll be the person who sells the collection who will suffer financially. I don't see too much point putting a 2 cent stamp in a 10 cent mount. A $1,000 stamp is a different matter entirely. Cheers - John Mycroft Thanks John, I'm getting started slowly, lots going on and then theres the 'honey-do-list'. I'm still curious though as to the best way to remove the old hinges from the stamps in the other book. -- Chris KeyID 0xE372A7DA98E6705C 31.11°N 97.89°W (Elev. 1092 ft) --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- |
Removing hinges
For my main Italy collection all mint stamps are mounted in Hawid mounts
with black backing, even if mounted already. I have one quite expensive stamp that has once been mounted, with an attempt to remove the mount leaving what was described as gum disturbance, which is fairly major. Frankly it would have been better to leave the hinge on, as I will only ever display the front of the stamp: http://www.italianstamps.co.uk/kingdom/airmail/sa25.jpg As you will see, the front is unaffected, and I like the fact that this stamp is not only marginal but has the sheet serial number on the selvedge. If the stamp has a hinge that has so badly affected a stamp that its remains are visible from the front, then find another specimen! Removing the hinge probably will not improve matters. Depending on the nature of the gum used, gentle painting of the hinge with tepid water may well loosen it enough to remove it without excessive gum disturbance. I would not do this with an expensive stamp! -- Tony Clayton |
Removing hinges
On 6/8/2011 6:48 PM, Chris wrote:
Thanks John, I'm getting started slowly, lots going on and then theres the 'honey-do-list'. I'm still curious though as to the best way to remove the old hinges from the stamps in the other book. When I do want to remove a hinge -- or remnants thereof, I sometimes use an eyedropper. Grubby stamps with multiple hinges get soaked. When I do soak, I gently rub the glue off before removing from the water so the back will not stick. For just a few stamps. I used a block of wood (1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 5or6") as a 'press'. |
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